Wednesday, August 23, 2017


$12.00 USD

These high quality silicone trivets are 7" in diameter by 5/16" thick. These can be used to set your kettle on to protect the surface you are brewing on. These also insulate the kettle from the surface preventing heat transfer loss from the kettle to the surface. The non-slip grip on these prevents the kettle from sliding around as well.

Color may vary.



This version of the Swirl-Boss is designed to connect directly to the accessory port on the Brew-Boss Kettle. It is constructed of 304 Stainless Steel and is CNC bent to allow a simple mounting arrangement. The threaded section is tig welded. This unit will last a lifetime! A female "High Flow" Camlock attaches to the male Camlock of the Brew-Boss accessory port. If you want to use the Swirl-Boss with your Brew-Boss system, this is the version you want. This item works on Brew-Boss 15 and 20 gallon kettles only. It is 16 inches long and will not work in 10 gallon kettles. Please be certain that you have at least 16.5 inches of distance between the accessory port and the bottom of the kettle.

NOTE: If you don't own a Brew-Boss kettle, and want to use this device, you need to also purchase our Value Accessory Port for your kettle. The Value Accessory Port allows you to easily connect a hose to the outside of your kettle. Installation of the accessory port requires drilling a 7/8" diameter hole near the top of your kettle.

The Swirl-Boss Whirlpool Wand is an innovative device that creates a very fast whirlpool in your wort, using only the standard pump supplied with the #BrewBoss system. A special laser cut Flow Matched “E” Nozzle Design Directs Water Jets Along Kettle Wall and Inward at the Proper Angle to Optimize Whirlpool Rotation. This provides the fastest whirlpool rotation speed available. #Whirlpooling is important to perform as it creates the magic “Hops Cone” in the middle of your kettle so you can transfer your wort to the fermenter free of hops trub. Because all the hops and other trub are forced to the middle of the kettle, transferring your wort to the fermenter via the valve on the outside of the kettle grabs clean wort, leaving the trub behind. Attach the Swirl-Boss to the accessory port on your Brew-Boss kettle and turn the pump on. In just a few minutes, the magic Hops Cone will be created.

Please note that the Swirl-Boss will not work with the Brew-Boss 10 gallon kettles.

Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew Like a Boss!!

Tuesday, August 22, 2017

RoboBrew - Video Brew Session by Brew Boss

Brew-Boss now handles the Robobrew brewing system for those customers on a tight budget or that need a 120 volt brewing system. In this video we brew a complete 6 gallon batch of a porter that we'll be aging in a bourbon barrel.

#Brew-Boss is the pinnacle electric brewing system for those discerning customers that want the very best. For those on a tighter budget or for those that want a 120 volt system, we now offer the #Robobrew system.

The Robobrew is an all-in-one electric brewing system that has built in elements for heating and boiling, a built in pump for recirculation, an onboard water resistant control panel for setting and monitoring temperatures, a removable grain basket, and a built in spigot for transfering. It is extremely portable and uses 110v power so it can be used nearly anywhere.

  • Stainless steel construction
  • 9 gallon total capacity with a finished beer output of 5-6 gallons
  • Digital temperature controller
  • 110v power and plug
  • Dual heating elements for total control (1000 watts and 500 watts)
  • Stainless steel 1/2 in ball valve for draining (don't have to use the pump)
  • Immersion wort chiller included
  • Stainless steel malt pipe/basket
  • Stamped volume markers
  • Glass lid
  • Magnetic drive pump for recirculation
  • Recirculation arm
  • 32.75 in H (with recirculation arm) x 12.5 in Dia

Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew Like a Boss!!

Monday, August 14, 2017

Brew Boss - Growing Hops on the Farm

The Brew Boss has been growing some fresh hops on the farm.  Now to decide what to make with them.

Hops are ready to pick

The Brew-Boss® System is a great value and competitively priced.

Brew-Boss Featur
automateses and Benefits
Brew-Boss controller  all temperature, timing, & pump control.
• Electronic process control provides consistent results batch after batch

• Available with Mesh Bag or the New COFI Filter System
• User defined steps configurable to nearly any brew process.
• Brew all-grain batches in 3½ hours including clean-up!
• Complete systems and conversion kits available.
• Supports Conventional or Brew-in-a-Bag (BIAB) brewing methods.

Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew Like a Boss!

Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Get your RoboBrew System from Brew-Boss

Brew-Boss is the pinnacle electric brewing system for those discerning customers that want the very best. For those on a tighter budget or for those that want a 120 volt system, we now offer the Robobrew system.

The Robobrew is an all-in-one electric brewing system that has built in elements for heating and boiling, a built in pump for recirculation, an onboard water resistant control panel for setting and monitoring temperatures, a removable grain basket, and a built in spigot for transfering. It is extremely portable and uses 110v power so it can be used nearly anywhere.

Built in magnetic drive pump to easily recirculate the wort during the mash. We recommend getting some silicone tubing to go with the recirculation arm. This allows you more control over the recirculation and you can then use the pump to transfer your wort to your fermenter.

Dual heating elements run off of a single 110 volt plug and have individual switches allowing for more control over the heating process. One element is 1000 watts and the other is 500 for a combined 1500 watts! Use both when you need to ramp up the temperature quickly either at the start to get to your mash temp or to go from your mash temp to boiling. Use only one of the elements when you want to hold a temperature.

The digital control panel makes it easy to see the current temperature and set the temperature you want. You can also set a delayed start of up to 23 hours in advance so that you can have your water hot and ready to go when you get home from work or get up in the morning. The digital controller is also water resistant so don't worry about spills or some water dripping down the side. This controller is built for brewing!

The brewery also includes a stainless steel malt pipe with false bottom allowing you to easily shift from mash tun to boil kettle during your brew day. The malt pipe includes a handle to lift it from the RoboBrew and tabs at the base so you can set the malt pipe over the RoboBrew to let the wort drain out. It also has feet at its base to raise the malt pipe slightly off the base and help prevent clogging.

The included stainless wort chillers is shipped with bare ends so you can set it up for your situation. We list below the most common tubing and fittings sold to help connect to a hose, hose bib, or faucet.

Note: The manual references an element for a different market. This unit comes with a two heating elements for a total of 1,500 watts.

  • Stainless steel construction 
  • 9 gallon total capacity with a finished beer output of 5-6 gallons 
  • Digital temperature controller 
  • 110v power and plug 
  • Dual heating elements for total control (1000 watts and 500 watts) 
  • Stainless steel 1/2 in ball valve for draining (don't have to use the pump) 
  • Immersion wort chiller included 
  • Stainless steel malt pipe/basket 
  • Stamped volume markers 
  • Glass lid 
  • Magnetic drive pump for recirculation 
  • Recirculation arm 
  • 32.75 in H (with recirculation arm) x 12.5 in Dia 
We recommend you also purchase 2 to 3 feet of our 1/2" ID silicone tubing for sparging, mashing, and draining.

Your Beer, Your Way!! Brew Like a Boss!!

Monday, July 17, 2017

Brew Boss Tips and Tricks - Cleaning the Pump

Brew Boss Tips and Tricks  - Cleaning the Pump

How to clean the Chugger pump supplied with the Brew-Boss electric brewing system.

Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew Like a Boss!

#electrichomebrewequipment, #biab, #chuggerpump

Tuesday, July 11, 2017


This item is for our 15 gallon Deluxe System that is configured with the most popular options. It includes the following items:
  • 240 Volt Brew-Boss Controller V2.0
  • 10" Android Tablet with the Latest Brew-Boss App Installed
  • Brew-Boss 4 Inch Digital Temperature Probe
  • Weldless Direct Contact Temperature Probe Kettle Mount
  • 15 Gallon Brew-Boss Kettle with Cover and Deluxe Accessory Port
  • Brew-Boss Exclusive 5500 Watt L6-30 Triclamp Stainlesss Steel Ripple Heating Element
  • 8 Foot L6-30 Extension Cord for Heater Element
  • Stainless Steel Mesh COFI Infusion Filter for 15 Gallon Brew-Boss Kettle
  • False Bottom for COFI Filter with Stainless Steel Center Infusion Tube
  • 24 Volt Brushless DC Brewery Grade Pump with Stainless Steel Pump Head
  • 90 Degree Barbed Elbow Threads Onto Center Infusion Tube
  • Stainless Steel Cam-Lock Fittings for All Hose Connections
  • Stainless Steel Flow Regulation Ball Valve (Gets Installed on Pump Discharge)
  • TriClamp Gaskets and Clamps
  • Stainless Steel Wing Nut Type Hose Clamps
  • 6' of Brewery Grade Silicone Tubing
  • Stainless Steel Lift Ring for COFI Filter
  • High Quality Teflon Pipe Thread Tape

The controller is supplied with 15 foot long 10 gauge cable for powering the unit with 240 Volts AC. The 240VAC power cable is supplied with a molded L6-30P twist lock plug. It is highly recommended that you install a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) type breaker on the circuit(s) you will be plugging the Brew-Boss into or use our inline GFI unit. If you need a plug other than the L6-30P provided, you may simply cut the supplied plug off and connect a plug that matches your outlet.

The controller requires a 220-240 Volt circuit of at least 30 Amps with a GFI breaker (or our inline GFI) installed to operate. The controller has a single 240 Volt L6-30R twist lock output plug that connects to a Brew-Boss Heater using the supplied L6-30 extension cord. A digital temperature probe is included with this controller. The controller is shipped with a L6-30R twist lock receptacle for a heater that mates to the Brew-Boss integrated elements. If you have a different heater, you can simply cut the end of the heater cable off and wire to your heater.

Included OptionsIn addition to the above items, this system includes the following options:

Pick-Up Tube- This durable Tri-Clamp pickup tube is constructed of beautiful polished 304 stainless steel. It attaches directly to the Tri-Clamp ferrule on the Brew-Boss kettle using a Tri-Clamp gasket and Tri-Clamp Clamp (gasket and clamp not included). It allows you to drain nearly all of the wort out of your kettle without tipping the kettle and disrupting the trub on the bottom. Mount this between your kettle and valve or between your kettle and pump. Includes pick-up tube with 1.5" Tri-Clamp ferrules.

Swirl-Boss - This is a nifty whirlpool device that mounts directly to the accessory port on the kettle and allows you to whirlpool your wort before transferring to your fermenter. Special reduced price when ordered with a Brew-Boss system.

Trivet Set - These Three (3) silicone trivets are great for placing your Brew-Boss kettle on to prevent heat transfer to your table or bench. The protect the surface and keep the kettle from accidentally being slid around, so they add safety as well. We sell these for less than our local Walmart does, so if you need them, add them to the system order.

Your Beer, Your Way!! Brew Like a Boss!!


Thursday, July 6, 2017

Fill-Boss Counter Pressure Bottle Filler: Multi Filler Kit Allows 4 Fill Bosses to Fill from a Common Source

Brew Boss offers a Multi-Filler Kit that allows up to 4 Fill-Boss Fillers to be ganged off a common source. Most commercial operations have from 2 to 4 fillers ganged together to increase production. We have found that we can fill about 2 cases of standard 12 ounce bottles in 20-30 minutes with 2 people and two fillers. One person fills and the other caps, labels, wipes, and places in case. We have a customer filling 22 ounce bomber bottles and they report being able to do 1 case (12 bottles) every 10 minutes with 2 fillers and 2 people.

The only moving part in the filler is the electric solenoid valve. These valves can become plugged if filling beverages with sediment in them. We recommend purchasing the optional inline filter if you are filling beverages with visible sediment. The valves can also become "sticky" if not cleaned properly and routinely. For this reason, we recommend purchasing a few spare solenoid valves (they are easy to change) in the event a valve becomes plugged or sticky and needs to be cleaned. Simply install the spare and clean the valve off-line.

If you need to fill a bottle with a mouth diameter greater than 1.25", you can simply replace the bottle seal we provide with any standard brewery grade drilled rubber stopper. For example, a size 11.5 drilled stopper fits the opening of HydroFlasks perfectly. We don't supply these stoppers, but they can be found at any homebrew or brewery supply retailer or online.

Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew Like a Boss!


Wednesday, July 5, 2017

Brew Boss Tips and Tricks -Removing the COFI Filter with the Boom Hoist

Video showing how the Brew-Boss brewing stand with integrated electric boom hoist makes removing the COFI (grain) filter effortless. Also shows how the COFI filter system extracts nearly all the liquid trapped in the grains.

Get yours today!

Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew like a Boss!

#electrichomebrewequipment, #beer

Saturday, June 10, 2017

Brew Boss Tips and Tricks - Boss Taking Wort Samples During Mashing

A quick and easy way to take wort samples during mashing with the Brew-Boss for testing specific gravity, pH, or conversion using iodine. All without even removing the cover!

• Electric Brewing Benefits:
- More economical - 1/5 the cost of propane
- Safer - No carbon monoxide or risk of explosion
- Efficient - 100% of BTUs transferred to wort
- Accurate - Holds temperatures +/- 1 degree
- Faster - 3½ hours for 10 gallon batch including clean-up
- Quiet - No obnoxious “roar” of the burner
- Convenient - Brew indoors in a sanitary environment

 Your Beer, Your Way!! Brew Like a Boss!

#homebrew, #beer, #brewboss

Wednesday, June 7, 2017

Tip: Using a Hop Back for Homebrewed Beer

By: Brad Smith


The “hop back” is used by many micro and commercial brewers to add hoppy flavor and aroma to any beer. #Homebrewers can also take advantage of this technique with simple equipment to add additional aroma to home brewed beer.

Using a Hop Back

A hop back is a device that is inserted in line as the beer is transferred and cooled from the hot boiler into the fermenter. The main purpose of a hop back is to transfer delicate hop oils and aromas that would otherwise be boiled off in the boiler. The technique is used for many ales and related styles where a hoppy aroma is desirable.

Whole or plug hops are used in a hop back, as the goal of the device is to maximize surface contact between the hot wort and the hops. Typically 1-2 oz of hops are used for a 5 gallon home batch. The hop back is inserted at the hot end, closest to the boiler to maximize the transfer of hop oils. Little actual alpha bitterness is added by a hop back, as the wort is not boiling, but a lot of fragile hop oils and aromas can be added. Since aroma, and not bitterness, are the goal it is best to use low alpha aroma hop varieties in your hop back.

Commercial brewers often make dual use of the hops from their hop back. After the hops have been used in a hop-back, many of the fragile oils have been taken out but the high alpha bittering hop oils remain. Therefore brewers can take the hops used in the hop back and boil them to extract bitterness in a subsequent batch. While this is difficult for homebrewers to do unless they brew multiple batches in a day, some homebrewers have been able to reuse hops in this way when creating parti-gyle brews (more than one batch of beer from a single mash).

You can purchase small hopback device from many home brewing supply stores. These typically consist of a small watertight container that can be easily opened and sanitized before use. Hops are added to the container and it is sealed for use. An inlet tube and outlet tube flow the hot wort through the hop back, and then into either a counterflow chiller or other cooling device before the wort is transported to the fermenter.

Making your own Hop Back

You can also build a hop-back at home from most any watertight heat resistant container. One of the more innovative home designs I’ve seen consists of nothing more than a ball canning jar with holes drilled into the top where tubes and fittings have been added to produce a watertight seal. An article on Bodensatz brewing (image shown above) has one of these devices that uses a copper or stainless steel put scrubber to help form a filter on the outgoing end of the hop back to prevent hops from plugging up the outlet hose. If you create such a device it is important to use lead-free solder when soldering the pieces together, and check the system to make sure it is watertight before use.

Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew Like a Boss!

Tuesday, June 6, 2017

Brew Boss Pro - Automated Electric Brewing Systems for Small Commercial Breweries

Automated Electric Brewing Systems for Small Commercial Breweries

Our success in the homebrew industry has allowed us to expand our product offerings into the commercial market. Our new Professional product line was designed from the ground up to withstand the rigors of daily use. Our new Brew-Boss Pro line is perfect for the Start-Up brewery as it is low cost and expandable but also fits a niche in established breweries for small batch production and pilot batch systems.

Industrial Quality Process Control
Brew-Boss Pro controllers are the only controllers on the market that allow you to define your process and save them by recipe. Direct export from BeerSmith software or any software that creates Beer XML files. The tablet based application talks you through the brew process and automates temperature control. Your temperatures are maitained with in 1 degree C. You get predicatable repeatable resutls batch after batch!

Pilot Batch Systems20 Gallon system provides the ability to make small (up to 15 gallon) batches for testing recipes or for smaller limted production batches

1 Barrel Production System

This system includes a 54 gallon kettle that allows batches up to 1 barrel in size. Perfect for nano and micro breweries and start-ups. Low cost Turn-key system can be duplicated for larger batches.

Fill-Boss Automatic Bottle Filler
Bottling product is critical to any nano or micro brewery. Brew-Boss provides the Fill-Boss automated counter pressure filling machine that makes bottling efficient and a cost far less than any competing machine on the market.

Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew Like a Boss!


Monday, June 5, 2017

The Impact of Flaked Oats on New England IPA

The Impact of Flaked Oats on New England IPA

By Marshall Schott,

This homebrew experiment was originally published on
* * *

Flaked oats are an unmalted grain that have had their starches gelatinized by pressure and heat during the flaking process, meaning they can be used without a cereal mash, which can’t be said for non-flaked grains like steel cut oats. The creaminess flaked oats purportedly imparts in a beer stems from the high beta glucan content, a gum produced during the malting process by the breakdown of hemicellulosic cell walls. Traditionally, brewers using grists consisting of high amounts of such adjuncts would employ a beta glucan mash rest at 104°F/40°C, during which beta glucanese enzymes work to dissolve the beta glucans thereby making for an easier lauter.

Up until a couple years ago, if I’d been asked what styles of beer benefit from flaked oats, my response would have been limited to Stouts and Porters, in which oats might make up 10% of the girst. That’s certainly not the case these days, as utilizing relatively high amounts of flaked oats has become a popular way to add a soft, elegant mouthfeel to New England style Pale Ales and IPAs, an inclusion also said to contribute to this style’s notably hazy appearance and sought after “juicy” character.

As a lover of clear beer, I’d avoided brewing one of these NE-style abominations due my belief their haze was a function of yeast in suspension or otherwise shoddy brewing process. However, a couple experiences during Homebrew Con 2016 forced me to question these opinions, the first one being our collaborative xBmt with Ed Coffey from Ales Of The Riverwards. His HopWards Pale Ale was delicious, and the fact the gelatin fined sample retained a similar level of haze as the non-fined sample seemed to indicate yeast wasn’t the culprit. And then, during club night, a reader of Brülosophy was kind enough to share many popular commercial examples of NEIPA, none of which had what I typically expect from a beer with yeast in suspension. My focus then shifted to the other novel aspects of the style, such as the heavy use of flaked oats. Is it really a necessary component, or does the character it is presumed to impart come from something else?

To evaluate the differences between a NE-Style IPA made with flaked oats and the same beer made without flaked oats but an otherwise similar recipe.

Since this was my first time brewing this style and I wanted to avoid as much bullsh*t criticism as possible, I relied on Ed’s HopWards recipe as the main inspiration for my recipe, making some changes in the hops based on what I had available at the time. BeerSmith calculations showed that swapping 18% of the Maris Otter grist with flaked oats had no impact on OG, which meant each batch would be of similar weight despite differing constitution.

Hazy Daze NE-Style IPA Recipe

Recipe Details

Batch SizeBoil TimeIBUSRMEst. OGEst. FGABV
5.5 gal60 min60.1 IBUs4.2 SRM1.0571.0135.8 %


Pale Malt, Maris Otter10.125 lbs81.82
Oats, Flaked2.25 lbs18.18


NameAmountTimeUseFormAlpha %
Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ)11 g60 minBoilPellet13.1
Centennial30 g15 minBoilPellet9.9
Centennial30 g5 minBoilPellet9.9
Citra30 g5 minBoilPellet13.4
Galaxy30 g5 minBoilPellet15
Citra60 g3 daysDry HopPellet13.4
Centennial30 g3 daysDry HopPellet9.9
Galaxy30 g3 daysDry HopPellet15


London Ale III (1318)Wyeast Labs73%64°F – 74°F


Water Profile: Ca 135 | Mg 1 | Na 10 | SO4 71 | Cl 186

In keeping with popular approaches to brewing this style, I chose to use a yeast strain that many have come to identify as quintessential, Wyeast 1318 London Ale III, and built a single large starter using 2 packs the morning prior to brewing.

Later that day, after the sun had set, my assistant accompanied me to the garage to help prepare for the following morning’s brew day, starting with measuring out and milling the slightly different amounts of Maris Otter.

I then weighed out the flaked oats and tossed them on top of the milled grain.

Left: Oats. Right: NOats

Since these would both be 5 gallon batches, I opted to use the no sparge method and collected the full volume of brewing liquor for each into separate kettles. The chemistry of the water used to make “proper” examples of NEIPA is often said to be far richer in chloride than sulfate, and so using Bru’n Water, I adjusted each batch to a sulfate to chloride ratio of about 0.38 (71:186). Around noon the next day, I began heating the strike water for the oats batch first then, 20 minutes later, doing the same for the batch with no oats, lamely referred to as “NOats” henceforth.

When the temperature of the water was slightly higher than suggested, it was transferred to a mash tun and allowed to preheat for a few minutes before I incorporated the grains, both batches ultimately settling at my target mash temperature.

Both batches were mashed for 60 minutes and stirred briefly every 20 minutes throughout. I took the time to measure out hop additions as the mashes rested.

Once the mashes were complete, I performed a vorlauf then began collecting the sweet wort, noticing what seemed to be a subtle and unsurprising difference in color.

Left: Oats | Right: NOats

Hops were added at the listed times during separate 60 minute boils.

Replacing hop stands with later kettle kettle additions meant the wort was chilled immediately at flameout, quickly dropping to about 72°F/22°C.

A hydrometer measurement at this point revealed a slight difference in OG, with the Oats wort clocking in a little lower than the NOats wort.

Left: Oats 1.056 OG | Right: NOats 1.058 OG

Separate 6 gallon PET carboys were filled with equal amounts of wort from either batch then placed in a temperature regulated chamber to finish chilling. While waiting, I stole some yeast from the starter to reserve for future use then split the rest evenly between two smaller flasks in preparation to be pitched. It took about 4 hours for the carboys of wort to stabilize at my target fermentation temperature of 67°F/19°C, at which point the yeast was pitched. Both beers had developed healthy kräusens and were bubbling like mad 18 hours later.

18 hours post-pitch

Yet another unique aspect of brewing NEIPA is adding dry hop additions during active fermentation, a step purported by some to be the cause of the so-called “juicy” hop character due to a process referred to as biotransformation. Because of this, I added the dry hop charges 2 days after pitching yeast, when it seemed the kräusen had peaked, about 4 days sooner than I would have for a West Coast IPA.

Dry hop additions added 2 days post-pitch

As fermentation finished up over the following few days, I was met with a glorious aroma every time I opened the chamber, which while nice, left me wondering if any would remain in the finished beer. Activity was all but absent a week post-pitch so I took an initial hydrometer measurement that I compared to a second measurement 3 days later, the lack of change confirming fermentation was indeed complete.

Left: Oats 1.010 FG | Right: NOats 1.010 FG

I dropped the temperature on the chamber to 32°F/0°C and let the beers cold crash overnight, forgoing my standard gelatin fining in order to preserve whatever it is some fear is lost by fining. I returned the following evening to keg the cold beers.

While I’d originally planned to add a charge hops in the keg as well and actually did suspend them in the kegged beer, I quickly learned the fishing line I used disallowed the o-ring on the keg to seal when pressure was applied. Dammit! After removing and tossing over 8 oz/227 g of sopping Galaxy, Citra, and Centennial, I burst carbonated the beers by applying 45 psi of CO2 to each keg. After 18 hours, I reduced the gas to 14 psi where it remained for 3 days until I began serving it to participants. Perfectly carbonated, nice white head with fantastic retention, and hazy as hell. Whatever I did right felt so wrong.

Left: Pats | Right: NOats

A total of 19 people of varying levels of experience participated in this xBmt. Each participant was served 1 sample of the Oats IPA and 2 samples of the NOats IPA then asked to identify the sample that was unique. Given the sample size, 11 tasters (p<0.05) would have had to correctly identify the Oats beer as being different in order to reach statistical significance. A total of 6 tasters (p=0.65) accurately identified the unique sample, indicating participants in this xBmt were unable to reliably distinguish a NE-style IPA made with 18% flaked oats in the grist from one made without any flaked oats but an otherwise similar recipe.

This xBmt was discussed live on The Brewing Network’s 11/21/2016 episode of The Session. Adding the data of the 4 blind co-hosts who evaluated the beers, only 1 of which correctly identified the Oats sample as being unique, brings the total number of participants to 23 with 12 (p<0.05) expected correct responses in order to reach statistical significance and 7 (p=0.69) actual correct responses. Ultimately, the performance of this set of participants roughly approximates the larger dataset’s inability to reliably distinguish between the Oats and NOats beers.

My Impressions: Despite all the sh*t I’ve talked on hazy IPA over the last few years, I was pretty excited to brew one for myself and especially curious about the impact of flaked oats. As far as my ability to distinguish between these beers goes, I could reliably tell them apart based on appearance alone, as the Oats batch had a lighter color that, to me, made it look more juice-like and less murky than the NOats beer. Other than that, I couldn’t do it. I didn’t necessarily expect them to taste and smell different, which they didn’t, but what really got me is how remarkably similar they were in terms of mouthfeel, both possessing what I could see being described as soft or even creamy with a luscious body that I always presumed came from flaked oats.

I feel I owe it to my hazy IPA loving friends to share that this was probably the best IPA I’ve ever made. Yeah, I know, it almost hurts to say it. I enjoyed it so much that I started drinking pints before data collection and worried I might not have enough if I didn’t practice some moderation. Citrus and tropical fruit stole the show with whispers of earthy dankness I believe came from the Galaxy. So, so good. At least for the first 10 days after kegging. At the time of writing this, the beers had been on tap for exactly 4 weeks and were certainly showing their age, though not to the point of being undrinkable.


Hazy New England/Northeastern IPA has permeated the craft beer world and, ugly as it may be to some, is almost certainly here to stay. In addition to its unconventional appearance, NEIPA is lauded for its soft mouthfeel and creamy texture, which many believe to be a function of the high percentage of flaked oats in the grist. However, participants’ inability to reliably distinguish a version of NEIPA made with 18% flaked oats from one made without flaked oats sort of throws a wrench in this theory. I’ve used varying amounts of flaked oats numerous times in the past in styles ranging from American Amber to Imperial Stout and I’ve never had an issue with clarity. Since both beers in this xBmt were similarly hazy and neither dropped clearer than the other over time, I’m beginning to question whether flaked oats really does contribute to haze as much as I’ve been led to believe.

So, what is the cause of haze in NEIPA? And what about the creamy, “juicy” character so quintessential to this style? While yeast in suspension is certainly a possibility, I’m doubtful because, for one, I’ve tasted yeasty beers many times and don’t enjoy them, plus I’ve yet to have gastrointestinal issues after drinking multiple pints of my xBmt beers. Since all we’re left with is speculation at this point, I find myself leaning toward a couple other explanations. Water chemistry being as imporant as it is, it seems pretty obvious the proportionately high chloride levels used to produce NEIPA is responsible for some of the uniqueness, though it may not be a main cause of haze. What I’m most interested in exploring further, a topic that has received little focus up until recently, is the impact of biotransformation that occurs from the interaction of yeast with hops added during active fermentation.

One thing I’m convinced of is that flaked oats and perhaps other similar grains do have an impact on the appearance of the finished beer, just not necessarily the haziness. To me, the NOats IPA’s darker color gave it a murky appearance reminiscent of dirty dish water, while the version made with oats had more of an orange hue that I found much more appealing. It’s because of this that I will continue to use flaked oats in future batches of NEIPA.

As is often the case, these results have left me with more questions than answers, a good thing for the curious like me. In addition to its impact on NEIPA, I can’t help but wonder what effect flaked oats actually has on styles where it more traditionally makes up a portion of the grist. Could it be that our perception of Oatmeal Stout as possessing a silky mouthfeel and creamy texture is driven more by expectation than reality? I don’t know, but I look forward to trying to figure it out!

Wednesday, May 31, 2017

New Product Release: Brew-Boss Pro System

New Product Release: Brew-Boss Pro System 

Congratulations to Back Road Brewery in Carlisle, IA for taking delivery of the 1st Brew-Boss Pro system. The Brew-Boss Pro system uses a 54 gallon kettle and dual 5500 watt heating elements to brew 1 barrel (31 gallon) all grain batches very quickly in a single kettle!

Our success in the homebrew industry has allowed us to expand our product offerings into the commercial market. Our new Professional product line was designed from the ground up to withstand the rigors of daily use. Our new Brew-Boss Pro line is perfect for the Start-Up brewery as it is low cost and expandable but also fits a niche in established breweries for small batch production and pilot batch systems.



The Hops-Boss is an automatic pellet hops feeder that plugs directly into the Brew Boss controller (V2.0 and greater) and allows you to dispense up to seven (7) different hops additions at the times you specify during the brew session. It can also be used to dispense other finings such as Irish Moss, etc.

You simply set your times in the Brew-Boss step definition and the Hops-Boss will do the rest.

The Hops-Boss is constructed from 304 Stainless Steel with specially machined plastic Hops-Cups (we call them Mortar Shells) and simply sits on the edge of nearly any kettle.

This version includes a wiring kit that allows you to connect this to your V2.0 or greater Brew-Boss controller using an RJ-45 type plug (similar to Ethernet). It requires you to drill a hole in the bottom of your controller for cable access. Please see the picture associated with this item that shows the V2.0 controller. If you have a controller that looks like that, then this Hops-Boss will work. The Brew-Boss Controller is not included with this item!

Your Beer, Your Way! Brew like a Boss!

Tuesday, May 30, 2017

Brew Boss Temperature Sensor Probe with Plug

Brew Boss Temperature Sensor Probe with Plug. This is our new longer 4" temperature probe that allows for more penetration into the kettle, providing more accurate temperature readings. #homebrew

Your Beer Your Way! Brew like a Boss!

Sunday, May 28, 2017

AHA: An Introduction to Kegging Homebrew

An Introduction to Kegging Homebrew

Say goodbye to bottling and hello to the wonderful world of kegging! We’re here to walk you through the basics of kegging your homebrew. It’s easier than you may think!

Parts & Components

Kegs: Homebrewers tend to use five-gallon stainless steel Cornelius (“Corny”) kegs, which come in two types differentiated by their fittings: ball-lock or pin-lock. While people have reasons to favor one over the other, choose one and stick with it so you don’t need to worry about different connectors and fittings.

Connectors: Every keg has two connections, one for pushing in CO2 and the other for dispensing beer. Quick-disconnects are used for easy connection, which come in plastic or stainless steel. Pin lock gas and liquid connectors are noticeably different, but ball lock connectors can look nearly-identical, so consider buying different colors to quickly discern the gas connect from the beer connect.

CO2 Tank: CO2 is the gas used to carbonate and push out the beer into your glass. Homebrewers tend to use five-pound tanks, which are easier to transport, but if you dispense a lot of beer and aren’t worried about mobility a 20-gallon tank can be filled for only a few dollars more. If you choose to buy a tank, be sure it is certified.

Regulator: A full CO2 tank holds a pressure of 800 PSI, which is way more than necessary for carbonating and serving beer, so a regulator is used to provide safe levels of CO2. The regulator screws onto the CO2 tank and allows you to set the preferred PSI and monitor the pressure with a gauge.

Faucet: A faucet or tap is needed to control the flow of beer when serving. The cheapest option is to get a picnic tap, or you can build some sort of kegerator or jockeybox with a tap-handle for more attractive serving.

Tubing: Food-grade tubing is needed to connect the CO2 and faucet to the quick-disconnects.

O-Rings: O-rings are rubber circles used to create a tight seal in areas like the hatch of the keg. If you bought used kegs, it is wise to replace all the O-rings, especially if they have stains or an aroma.

Disassembly & Cleaning

If purchasing brand new kegs and components, it may not be necessary to clean before using—but it never hurts! The best way to ensure everything is thoroughly clean is to completely disassemble the keg.

Start by depressurizing the keg. If your keg has a pressure release valves, simply use this. If not, take a key or screwdriver and push down on the poppet of the gas-in fitting to allow gas to escape. Once this is done lift the bail of the hatch, lower it into the keg a few inches and remove. If the hatch doesn’t budge, that most likely means there is still pressure in the keg that needs to be released. Releasing all pressure is very important, and if ignored can cause injury.

After removing the hatch, you will notice a large O-ring around its top side. Remove the O-ring. Next, unscrew the gas and liquid fittings on the top of the keg and remove the dip tubes beneath them. Each fitting and each tube will have a small O-ring (four in total not counting the hatch O-ring). If you notice the O-rings are dirty or have an aroma, replace them. If the dip tubes are plastic and there are stainless steel options for your type of keg, it is strongly encouraged upgrade.

Once completely disassembled, the keg can be cleaned. First, rinse off any noticeable sediment inside the keg. Next, fill the keg with warm water and the appropriate amount of your preferred cleaner and throw in all the keg components. Allow the keg to soak for a few hours. If needed, use a carboy brush or something similar to get off any tedious stains or sediment.

Empty the keg of the cleaning solution and replace all the fittings along with the O-rings, taking care that the fittings and tubes are replaced correctly. Again, fill the keg with warm water and cleaner, seal with the hatch, and set the keg upside down for a few hours to cleanse the top of the keg’s inside. Rinse thoroughly multiple times with hot water.
Sanitation & Racking

Once your beer is ready for serving and you have a clean keg, it’s time to prepare the keg and transfer the beer.

First, sanitize the assembled keg thoroughly by filling it up with water and adding your preferred sanitizer. No-rinse sanitizer is recommended to avoid the need of an additional rinse step. Allow the keg to sit with the sanitizer solution for 10-20 minutes, then flip it upside down and let sit for 10-20 minutes to sanitize the top portion. Remove the hatch, empty the keg, and leave upside down to allow to drip-dry.

Once the keg is sanitized, it is time to prepare for racking by purging the keg of oxygen, which could cause oxidation. Connect the CO2 tank to the gas-in fitting and set the regulator to 5 PSI. Turn on the CO2, allow gas to flow for five seconds or so, and then turn off the CO2. Because CO2 is heavier than oxygen, it will fall to the bottom of the keg, forming a protective layer against oxygen as the beer is racked

After the initial purge, rack the beer into the keg and seal the hatch. Again, set the regulator to 5 PSI, turn on the CO2 to fill the keg’s head space, and turn off once you can no longer hear gas flowing. Open the pressure release valve to let the pressure out. Continue this process three or more times to purge remaining air from the headspace, and then shut off the CO2.

Carbonation & Serving

With the beer racked into the keg, it’s time to carbonate. Using the recipe or style guidelines, determine the ideal carbonation level, measured in volumes of CO2, for the style you are kegging. Generally speaking 2.0 volumes of CO2 will work if you are not sure where to start.

With a target carbonation level in mind, next take the temperature of the beer in the keg. The colder the beer, the more easily CO2 is dissolved, so it will effect the desired level of pressure. Download a complimentary copy of “A Bottler’s Guide to Kegging” and use Table 1 to determine the ideal level of pressure (PSI) to achieve the target carbonation level at the beer’s current temperature.

Now you’re ready to carbonate. Hook up the CO2 to the keg and set the regulator to the PSI determined using the table mentioned above. Turn on the CO2 tank and listen for the flow of gas. As the pressure reaches equilibrium the gas will begin to slow and eventually stop, and because the keg is upright there is only a small surface area of beer for the CO2 to dissolve.

While you can fully carbonate a keg with this method over the course of a few days, a little agitation will go a long way and carbonate the beer faster. Some will roll the keg on the ground as it’s connected to the CO2 to encourage more gas to dissolve into solution, though this is not recommended if your regulator does not have a check valve. You can also simply shake and slosh the keg around upright