Showing posts with label #hops. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #hops. Show all posts

Thursday, August 29, 2019

HOPS FILTER BASKET/SPIDER

HOPS-BOSS HOPS FILTER BASKET/SPIDER 6X16"




https://www.brew-boss.com/product-p/hb-filter0616.htm
Hops filter basket. Keeps hops sediment out of your wort. Filter is constructed of 100% 304 Stainless Steel and is 6" dia x 16" tall with brackets that hang on the side of most brew kettles. It works as a stand-alone unit or with the Hops-Boss unit as well (see picture). This filter fits 15 and 20 gallon kettles only when used with the Hops-Boss as it is too tall for the 10 gallon kettle, although it can be set on the bottom of the 10 gallon kettle and used as a stand-alone filter.























The basket is wrapped with 300 micron stainless steel wire mesh. 
  • 6" Diameter x16" Tall
  • 300 Micron
  • 100% 304 Stainless Steel
  • Easily cleaned




Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew like a Boss!


#hopsfilterspider, #hops, #brewboss, #homebrewingequipment, #biab


Thursday, November 15, 2018

Another Great Brew Boss Electric Beer Brewing System Review

Brew Boss Customer Review

Email from Raymond M
11/14/2018

I wanted to give you my opinion of the brew-boss.

I have come to use the brew-boss on a 120 volt system. I purchased this unit used in April 2018. This was my very first experience in brewing. I will tell you from someone who had no clue about beer brewing my results were very good. I have had nothing but complements on the product I have been producing. It really has been much easier than I thought it would be. I have produced some of what I have been told "Best beer they have ever drank" I realize this is subjective. I can say with the exception of 1 I have loved everything I have brewed. Since buying a used 120volt system in April 2018 I have wanted to be able to do larger batches. I was able to sell my 120volt system for a fair price and I received my 240 volt 20 gallon system a couple weeks ago. I brewed my first batch this past weekend with the hops boss, this is a must have in my opinion. Man this thing really works well. I had a Hot break and I did not have spray with me as you show in your video, But I turned the pump on for a couple seconds and it went away very quickly. The beer has a better color than last batch I did in the 120volt system. And it was in the 30's outside and this unit pushed right through. I am very impressed with the quality of every piece I received. But I would have to say that beyond the quality of the products is the over the top service provided by Brew-boss. I had a couple issues and I believe they were due to having an older version of the App. But once it updates, in the background, it connected and I was able to put it on my network and it works flawlessly.

I want to thank you for all the effort you have put into making a top quality product at a reasonable price. This allows someone who knows very little about brewing to make quality all grain beer with little to no issues. It is also robust enough for the expert maybe even a small brewery to use for creating small test batches and advanced home brewers to create complex recipes. I was able to successfully do a beer with a 5 step mash. Can not do that with any other brewing system that I know of. The guy who gave me the recipe said he has wanted to brew this beer but never could until we did it on the brew boss.



Your Beer, Your Way! Brew Like a Boss!




#brewbossreview,#homebrewing,#electricbrewingequipment,#ebiab,#beer,#hops,#brewboss

Thursday, September 20, 2018

Brew Boss - Hops Filter/Spider

Brew Boss - Hops Filter/Spider





http://www.brew-boss.com/product-p/hb-filter0616.htm

Hops filter basket. Keeps hops sediment out of your wort. Filter is constructed of 100% 304 Stainless Steel and is 6" dia x 16" tall with brackets that hang on the side of most brew kettles. It works as a stand-alone unit or with the Hops-Boss unit as well (see picture). This filter fits 15 and 20 gallon kettles only when used with the Hops-Boss as it is too tall for the 10 gallon kettle, although it can be set on the bottom of the 10 gallon kettle and used as a stand-alone filter.










Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew like a Boss!

www.brew-boss.com


#brewboss,#hops,#hopsfilterhopsspider,#homebrewing

Monday, August 14, 2017

Brew Boss - Growing Hops on the Farm

The Brew Boss has been growing some fresh hops on the farm.  Now to decide what to make with them.


Hops are ready to pick



The Brew-Boss® System is a great value and competitively priced.

Brew-Boss Featur
automateses and Benefits
• Brew-Boss controller  all temperature, timing, & pump control.
• Electronic process control provides consistent results batch after batch

• Available with Mesh Bag or the New COFI Filter System
• User defined steps configurable to nearly any brew process.
• Brew all-grain batches in 3½ hours including clean-up!
• Complete systems and conversion kits available.
• Supports Conventional or Brew-in-a-Bag (BIAB) brewing methods.



Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew Like a Boss!

Tuesday, May 16, 2017

Hop Varieties and their Characters





http://www.brew-boss.com/default.asp

The Brew-Boss® System is a great value and competitively priced.

Brew-Boss Features and Benefits

• Brew-Boss controller automates all temperature, timing, & pump control.
• Electronic process control provides consistent results batch after batch.
• Available with Mesh Bag or the New COFI Filter System
• User defined steps configurable to nearly any brew process.
• Brew all-grain batches in 3½ hours including clean-up!
• Complete systems and conversion kits available.
• Supports Conventional or Brew-in-a-Bag (BIAB) brewing methods.

• Electric Brewing Benefits:
- More economical - 1/5 the cost of propane
- Safer - No carbon monoxide or risk of explosion
- Efficient - 100% of BTUs transferred to wort
- Accurate - Holds temperatures +/- 1 degree
- Faster - 3½ hours for 10 gallon batch including clean-up
- Quiet - No obnoxious “roar” of the burner
- Convenient - Brew indoors in a sanitary environment

• Android Tablet application provides:
- Simple - press “Start” and follow the prompts
- Convenient process monitoring and control
- Graphical Interface with Speech Prompts
- Saving and recalling brew steps & parameters
- Automatic or manual control

• Automatic Hops-Boss hops feeder option that dispenses hops automatically.

• All Food/Brewery Grade Components

• Great Value - Affordable

• First time home brewers can brew all grain perfectly the first time! 

#electrichomebrewequipment #brewboss

Saturday, October 1, 2016

How to Store Hops

#electrichomebrewequipment
By Dave Carpenter


The hop harvest is upon us!

Hops come but twice a year: once in the northern hemisphere and once in the southern. Whether you grow hops in your backyard, purchase in bulk from the farm, or buy as you go at ye olde homebrew store, knowing how to store those bitter cones of joy is key to keeping them fresh and in top condition. Here’s what you need to know.


  1. Keep hops away from oxygen. Oxygen is bad, bad, bad for your hops, and limiting exposure to O2 is critical to long-term storage. Professional growers and distributors store and ship hops in nitrogen-flushed or vacuum-sealed bags. Nitrogen probably isn’t an option for homebrewers, but if you keep a lot of hops around, it’s well worth investing in a home vacuum sealer. Some models can accommodate a mason jar attachment, which will suck the air right out of a glass jar, a good option if you need to get in and out of your stash frequently. Vacuum sealers are also great for storing leftovers and playing pranks on your co-workers. Imagine the hijinks that will ensue when Bob from accounting comes back from vacation to find his mouse, pens, stapler, and employee-of-the-month award all safely vacuum-sealed and floating in the aquarium.
  2. Keep hops away from heat. Generally speaking, the colder you store your hops, the longer they’ll last, not just in terms of aroma and flavor, but also with respect to alpha acid preservation. The best spot is in the bottom of a chest freezer, one that you haven’t modified for fermentation. The freezer in your kitchen fridge will work, too, but today’s frost-free models go through cycles of cold and relative warmth to keep frost at bay. Try surrounding your hops with frozen water bottles or ice packs to stabilize the temperature.
  3. Keep hops away from light. If you keep those hops in the freezer, which you should, then light shouldn’t be too much of an issue. Nonetheless, it’s worth considering, especially if you have energy-inefficient loved ones who like to stand with the freezer door open as they evaluate their snacking options. The easiest solution is to just keep your vacuum-sealed hops in a trash bag or other opaque container. A higher-tech option is to use Mylar-lined oxygen-barrier vacuum bags, which have the added bonus of being completely impervious to oxygen.

Along with avoiding oxygen, heat, and light, remember that if you grow your own hops and aren’t using them right away in a wet-hopped beer, you’ll also want to dry your hops before storage.

Properly stored hops will last for at least a year, and with the right attention to detail, it’s not uncommon to get several years out of them. Just get them right back into a cold, dark, oxygen-free environment right after you use what you need.


Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Hop Options for the Adventurous Brewer


POSTED BY MICHAEL "CASTLESEVEN" SCHMIDT ON MAY 31, 2016 - ARTICLES, BEGINNER BREWING, BREWING PROCESS,DISCUSSION

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/hop-options-adventurous-brewer.html

Whether you love the bitter fruit and flower flavors of the American Cascade hop, the double bitterness punch of Centennial, or the herbal, piney goodness of Northern Brewer, hop-heads around the world have plenty of options when it comes to their favorite flowers. Most novice brewers are familiar with 5 to 10 different hops, but with over 100 varieties in commercial use and many more in development, you may be missing out on some great opportunities to introduce new flavors by using lesser known or newer hop varieties. Here are a few hot options if you’re feeling adventurous!

1. Nelson Sauvin


Nelson Sauvin – the white wine hop

Originating from New Zealand, this hop exhibits the typical spicy characteristic the area is known for, but with one major twist – it has a similar aroma to Sauvignon Blanc grapes! It has also been associated with other flavors and aromas including crushed gooseberry, passion fruit and tangerine. This is a great dual purpose hop that can be added to your boil whenever you want depending on how you want to utilize its aromatic and bittering properties. According to ychhops.com, this hop was developed by the New Zealand Institute for Plant and Food Research and released in the year 2000. If you want to try commercial beers that use this hop, look for the following at your local craft beer store:

Mikkeller – Single Hop Nelson Sauvin IPA
Widmer Brothers Brewing – Nelson Imperial IPA
Alpine Beer Company – Nelson
Prairie – Merica

2. Hopsteiner Lemondrop


Lemondrop – a citrusy, refreshing hop option

Known as “Super Cascade”, this US bred hop features aromas of lemon, mint, green tea, and a hint of melon. Homebrewers know a true lemon flavor is difficult to pull off, and this hop appears to be an answer to that particular prayer. Hopsteiner released this hop for limited experimentation in 2012, and started migrating it to the commercial stage for the 2014 crop year. It was difficult to find beers that featured Lemondrop, but it should become more prevalent in the next year or so. If you want to try Lemondrop in a commercial brew, you’ll have to snag one of the brews below:

Deschutes – Hop Henge Imperial IPA
Stone Brewing – Delicious IPA

3. Azacca


Azacca – A distinct, unique tropical flavor.

Named after the Haitian god of agriculture, Azacca boasts some extraordinarily unique fruity flavors that you won’t find in other fruity/citrusy hops. Mango, papaya and orange flavors dominate with subtle spiciness and a hint of grass. The hops high myrcene content makes it extremely aromatic with very soft bitterness, making it perfect for the late stage boil or dry-hopping. Released in 2014, there are a handful of beers where Azacca takes the center stage:

Victory Brewing – Hop Ranch
Cigar City – Azacca
Wicked Weed – Lupulin Lab IPA: Azacca
Founders – Azacca IPA

4. Falconer’s Flight 7 C’s Hop Blend


Hop ‘blends’ were created to alleviate shortages of high demand hops.

As mentioned earlier, most novice brewers cut their teeth with a handful of well known hops. The ubiquitous “C” hops include Cascade, Centennial, Chinook, Citra, Cluster, Columbus and Crystal. Hopunion saw fit to blend all of these popular varieties plus some experimental flowers into a single hop! Aromatic qualities include citrus, floral, earthy, and grapefruit. 

Some homebrewers warn that the 7C hop has so much variety that using it in a single-malt-and-single-hop (SMaSH) beer will produce a “miscellaneously hoppy” flavor. Other brewers disagree, and suggest that when paired with the right malt (rye, for example), the flavors and aroma really compliment each other. Experimentation is obviously encouraged, but this hop may find its groove as an early- or middle-stage boil addition with a different, more defined aromatic hop at late-stage or dry hop. Commercial brews showcasing this hop were difficult to come by, and it may be hard to find one outside a local taproom.

Twains – Tropicalia IPA
Top Rung – Falconer’s Flight 7C’s Pale Ale

5. Polaris


Mint is a surprising dark horse of beer flavors

Alpha acids are what give hops their bittering potential as they are isomerized during the boil to deliver the final IBU (international bittering unit) value of the brew. Alpha acid content is generally given as a percentage range; multiple factors, such as growing conditions and drying methods, can affect the actual alpha acid content. Some hops like Saaz only have 2 – 5% AA, while heavy bitterness hitters like Chinook can top out at 14%. But even Chinook takes a back seat to the king of bittering hops – Polaris. Polaris hops range from a whopping 18 – 23% AA content. But don’t let the high AA content fool you into thinking Polaris can only bring bitterness to the table. It also boasts an incredible floral/fruity aroma accented by notes of fresh mint and eucalyptus, owing its penetrating fragrance to high oil concentration. Commercial options to try include:

The Kernel Brewery – Pale Ale (Polaris Apollo Columbus)
Hermitage Brewing – Single Hop Series – Polaris

At the heart of homebrewing is (or should be) an earnest love of experimentation through trial-and-error. There’s nothing quite like wowing your friends with a beer you thought up on your own and tweaked to perfection. Recipes and kits are excellent ways to sample a variety of homebrews with good repeatability and known outcomes. But hopefully this exploration of lesser known hops encourages you to get out there and try something new!

If you want to read more about the DIY aspect of homebrew or see some other cool projects, check out my blog at castleseven.net, or follow me on Twitter (@TheCastleSeven).

What lesser used hops do you like?

Until next time, happy brewing!

Friday, June 17, 2016

Using Fresh Wet Hops in Home Brewed Beer

Brew Boss Electric Homebrew Equipment www.brew-boss.com #hops #ebiab #homebrew


by BRAD SMITH

#Wethops are #hops that are freshly harvested and have not yet been dried or processed. These can be used for home brewing beer, but you need to make some adjustments to your recipe and expectations when using wet hops.

Wet Hops

Some time ago I wrote an article on the growing hops in the garden. When you harvest your hop cones you typically will dry them right after harvesting to preserve them. All of the hops you buy from your local brew store are dried – typically down to a moisture level of 8-10%. However there is an alternative – using the hops right off the bine while they are still fresh. These hops are called “wet hops” or fresh hops. Wet hops contain 75-80% water by weight – enough to drip water if you squeeze them hard enough.

Wet hops will spoil quickly so they should be used immediately after harvest. It is best if you can use them 24-48 hours after harvesting.

It is difficult to get wet hops from hop growers unless you can make special arrangements. Some small breweries such as Sierra Nevada brew wet hopped beers, but they have the hops shipped overnight as soon as they are harvested in containers designed to provide proper ventilation for the hops. For home brewers, growing and harvesting your own wet hops is usually the best option.

Brewing with Wet Hops

Your brewing schedule will be dictated by the hop harvest. Hops reach peak flavor for harvesting for only a few days, and since the hops need to be used immediately you’ll need to schedule around the harvest.

Wet hops have a larger concentration of fresh plant material, which can result in more vegetal and even tobacco flavors. Chlorophyl and “green” flavors if used properly give the distinctive fresh hop flavor to the beer. However, the risk in 100% wet hopped beers is that these flavors can be overdone and spoil the profile for the beer. For this reason many brewers avoid using wet hops on very highly hopped beers like IPAs, while others embrace the green flavors as part of a fresh hopped beer.

Commercial and home grown hops also don’t come with a hop analysis data sheet. There is always an element of mystery when wet hopping. The brewer is left to guess, based on the variety, what this season’s alpha content might be for a given wet hop. This means that targeting a bitterness level for your hops might mean picking a range of IBUs rather than a single number.

Further complicating hop yield calculations is the fact that wet hops are mostly water by weight. So one ounce of wet hops is nowhere near the same as an ounce of dry hops. Most brewers use a rule of thumb, often derived from experience, to determine how much wet hops to substitute for an equivalent weight in dry hops. A good starting point is somewhere in the range of 6-8 – so you might use 6-8 times as much wet hops by weight to achieve the same bitterness as the equivalent dried hop weight.

Wet hops can be used anywhere in the brewing process, including as a boil addition, whirlpool addition or for dry hopping. It is usually hard to both brew and dry hop with the same hops, however, due to the very short 1-2 day shelf life of the hops itself. However some brewers have experimented with dry hopping during primary fermentation, which might be an option if you are trying to brew and dry hop with your freshly harvested home grown variety.

It is not uncommon to mix wet and dry hops when brewing. For example you could boil with regular dried hops from the store, and use fresh hops for “dry hopping”, or mix varieties bought from the store with your home grown fresh hops.

Are wet hops for everyone? Well clearly not everyone has access to freshly picked hops or the ability and time to grow hops in their garden. However, fresh hops can add exciting fresh flavors to your beers once a year and also offer a unique challenge to the brewer and hop grower.

Friday, May 20, 2016

Best Hop Techniques for Homebrewing

#brewboss #hops #homebrew Brew Boss Electric Homebrew Equipment www.brew-boss.com

by BRAD SMITH

A good understanding of various hop techniques is critical for successful brewing. Yet the wide array of hopping techniques with terms such as mash hopping, first wort hops, dry hops, boil hops, and late hop additions can be confusing to first time and experienced brewers alike.

Beginners and intermediate brewers alike often apply the wrong technique to a given beer style. Knowing which technique to use for a particular style or desired flavor profile is part art form, but it all starts with a firm understanding of the techniques themselves.

We’ll present the most common hop methods in something of a chronological order, starting with the mash and ending with finished beer:

Mash Hopping

Mash hopping is simply the addition of hops directly to the mash tun itself. The hops is often placed on top of the grain bed and left to sit as the mash is sparged. Mash hopping is reported to provide a better overall balance and character to the beer, though it adds almost no bitterness.

Mash hopping is seldom used today because it requires a fairly large amount of hops and adds very little in direct flavor. Since the hops are never boiled, no bitterness is released and most of the flavorful oils from the hop flower are lost in the boil that follows.

Brewers today theorize that most of the reported benefits from mash hopping are a byproduct of lower pH from mash hopping and not the hops itself. Given the high cost of hops, as well as many cheaper methods exist for controlling the pH of your wort, I’m not sure why a homebrewer would choose to mash hop.

First Wort Hops

First wort hops are hops added to the boil pot at the very start of the lautering process. Unlike mash hops, first wort hops remain in the boiler during the boil and therefore do contribute bitterness to the wort.
First wort hopping is an old German method that has enjoyed a home brewing resurgence. In blind taste tests, beers brewed with this method are perceived as smoother, better blended and have less of a bitter edge and aftertaste. I have personally used this method with great success on a variety of beers where a smooth well balanced bitterness is desirable. I’ve even used it on lightly hopped styles as it helps to reduce the perceived bitterness without upsetting the malt-bitterness balance of the beer.

Bittering Hops

Bittering hops or boil hops are just that – hops added for the bulk of the boil to add bitterness to the beer. Boiling hops releases the alpha acids that provide bitterness in your beer. The longer you boil your hops, the more bitterness you will add.

Beer software, such as BeerSmith can help you estimate the bitterness for a given hop additions. In general, your bittering additions should be boiled for full length of your boil (typically 60-90 minutes) to extract as much bitterness per ounce of hops as possible. I will usually add my bittering hop addition at the beginning of the boil.

Late Hop Additions


Hops added in the last 5-15 minutes of the boil are called late hop additions. These hops are usually not added for bittering, though they do contribute a small amount of bitterness to the beer. The main purpose for late hop additions is to add aroma and aromatic hop oils to your beer.

In addition to bittering compounds, hop cones from “aromatic” hop varieties contain volatile hop oils that provide the strong flowery aromatic flavor and scent desirable in many hoppy beer styles. Unfortunately most of these compounds boil off within 10-20 minutes of adding the hops.

Late hop additions should always use “aromatic” hop varieties, and should be done within the last 10 minutes of the boil to preserve as many aromatic oils as possible. In addition, late hop additions are most appropriate for beer styles where a hoppy flavor and aroma is needed. You would not add late hop additions to a malty or low hop beer style.

The Hop Back

A hop back is a device containing hops used inline between the boiler and chiller to infuse fragile hop oils and aroma directly into the hot wort before it is cooled and transferred to the fermenter. While a hop back does not add any significant bitterness to the beer, it can add great aroma to your finished beer. 

Dry Hopping

Dry hopping is the addition of hops after the beer has fermented. Hops are typically added in the secondary fermenter or keg and left for a period of several days to several weeks. Dry hopping is used to add a hoppy aroma to the beer, as no bitterness is added with this method. Dry hopping is also used in many commercial beers for a hoppy burst of aroma.

The basic method is to add a few ounces of hops to the secondary before bottling. If kegging, use about half as much hops. Again you should use only aromatic hop varieties, and you should only use this method with hoppy beer styles where a strong hop aroma is desired.

Combining Hop Methods


Advanced brewers often use a combination of hop additions to achieve a burst of hop aroma and flavor, particularly for hoppy styles like India Pale Ale. In fact, many true hopheads will add substantial first wort and boil hops, followed by multiple late hop additions and a final dose of dry hops.

Personally, I try to keep things simple, so I will typically add a single boil or first wort addition for bitterness, followed by a single late hop addition in the last 5-10 minutes of the boil to preserve aromatics and dry hopping if appropriate. In these hop starved times, I’ll also try to use higher alpha bittering hops for the main boil hops and save my precious aromatics for the late addition and for dry hopping.

On non-hoppy styles, I’ll often choose to add a single bittering addition, often as first wort hops since I like the smooth blending perception this method produces.

Friday, April 8, 2016

Is the Lupulin Threshold Shift Fact or Fiction?

#homebrew, #brewboss, #hops Brew Boss Electric Homebrew Equipment www.brew-boss.com
Do #beer drinkers build up a resistance to hops? It’s a question that’s surrounded by controversy and uncertainty, with experts from all over giving their input on the matter. In 2005, Vinnie Cilurzo at Russian River Brewing coined the phrase “lupulin threshold shift,” to describe when a once extraordinarily hoppy beer now seems pedestrian.
Hops are wonderful. Believe it or not, there was once a time when beer wasn’t hopped. Instead, medieval brewers used spices, flowers and other herbs to give beer flavor (think gruit). In the 13th century, brewers started using Humulus #lupulus (female hops) to improve flavor and aroma, which soon became commonplace as it improved beer’s head retention and shelf life. Today you’d be hard-pressed to find a beer that was made without hops.
Our ability to taste #bitterness evolved as a way of detecting poison. It’s interesting that we’ve developed an acquired taste for bitter food and drink as it seems rare elsewhere in nature. Is it this contrast that has driven us to crave a good IPA?
Is the Lupulin Threshold Shift Fact or Fiction?
Because of the lupulin threshold shift, it seems as though we’ve built up a tolerance to hoppiness and bitterness. Beers that once impressed you with their flavor, bitterness and hoppy aroma don’t seem as interesting or have the same punch that you’ve come to expect and desire.
Two years after Cilurzo coined the term, it came up during a Q&A session at the First International Brewers Symposium. Following a presentation detailing results of research related to bitterness quality, an attendee explained the concept of lupulin threshold shift to Tom Shellhammer and drew an analogy to spicy food. “When you get used to hot food you have to put in more and more spice to get the same perceived spicy heat; the same analogy applies to beer and bitterness, in my opinion,” he said.

Lupulin Threshold Shift

1. When a once extraordinarily hoppy beer now seems pedestrian.
2. The phenomenon a person has when craving more bitterness in beer.
3. The long-term exposure to extremely hoppy beers; if excessive or prolonged a habitual dependence on hops will occur.
4. When a “Double IPA” just is not enough.
Shellhammer replied: “I use the same analogy to describe temporal and qualitative effects of bitterness. For instance, the heat from ginger is different than the heat from chili peppers. But in regard to what you described as lupulin threshold shift, we don’t see a shift in how the panelists perform over time.”
However, human olfactory psychophysics, the study of how humans perceive odors, indicates that the impact of an aroma may change. Andreas Keller and colleagues at Rockefeller University discovered that the perceived smell of an odor at a given concentration changes over time and depends on prior experience. In other words, the more you’re subjected to a smell, the more you adapt to it, thereby raising the threshold of that smell. Although this does not completely apply to nonvolatile bitter components, it has been shown that the brain, smelling hoppy aromas, expects a more bitter drinking sensation, or a lupulin threshold shift.

Wednesday, March 30, 2016

Hop Substitutions

What do you do when you are unable to find a #hop variety online or at your local homebrew shop? Hopefully you’re not throwing in the proverbial towel!
Many hop varieties can be used instead of hard to obtain hops with great success.
All of the hop substitutions suggested below were provided by YCH Hops. All hop varieties are domestic (USA) unless labeled otherwise.
Use the following key to help identify hop variety origins:
  • AUS – Australia
  • CZE – Czech
  • DEU – Germany
  • FRA – France
  • GBR – Great Britain
  • NZL – New Zealand
  • POL – Poland
  • SVN – Slovenia
Visit YCH Hop’s hop variety section of their website for more in depth descriptions off all the hops listed below!

Hop Variety

Possible Hop Substitution

Admiral (GBR)
  • Northdown (GBR)
  • Target (GBR)
  • Challenger (GBR)
Ahtanum
  • Cascade
Amarillo
  • Cascade
  • Centennial
  • Simcoe
Aramis (FRA)
  • Centennial
  • Chinook
  • Hallertau
  • Tettnang
Bitter Gold
  • Galena
  • Nugget
Bramling Cross (GBR)
  • East Kent Golding (GBR)
  • Progress (GBR)
Bravo
  • Columbus
  • Magnum
  • Nugget
Brewer’s Gold
  • Chinook
  • Galena
  • Nugget
Brewer’s Gold (DEU)
  • Galena
  • Northern Brewer
  • Northdown (GBR)
Bullion
  • Brewer’s Gold
  • Chinook
  • Columbus
  • Galena
  • Northern Brewer
Cascade
  • Ahtanum
  • Amarillo
  • Centennial
Centennial
  • Cascade
  • Chinook
  • Columbus
Challenger (GBR)
  • Northern Brewer
  • Perle (DEU)
Chelan
  • Galena
  • Nugget
Chinook
  • Columbus
  • Northern Brewer
  • Nugget
Citra
  • Galaxy (AUS)
  • Taurus (DEU)
Cluster
  • Galena
Columbia
  • Fuggle
Columbus
  • Chinook
  • Galena
  • Millennium
  • Nugget
Comet
  • Galena
  • Summit
Crystal
  • Hallertau
  • Liberty
  • Mt. Hood
  • Strisselpalt (FRA)
  • Hersbruker (DEU)
East Kent Golding (GBR)
  • Golding
  • Progress (GBR)
Eroica
  • Brewer’s Gold
  • Galena
  • Glacier
  • Bullion
First Gold (GBR)
  • Crystal
  • East Kent Golding (GBR)
Fuggle
  • Willamette
  • Fuggle (GBR)
  • Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Fuggle (GBR)
  • Fuggle
  • Wilamette
  • Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Galaxy (AUS)
  • Citra
Galena
  • Brewer’s Gold
  • Columbus
  • Nugget
Glacier
  • Fuggle
  • Willamette
  • Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Golding
  • Fuggle
  • Willamette
  • East Kent Golding (GBR)
  • Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Green Bullet (NZL)
  • Fuggle
  • Willamette
Hallertau
  • Liberty
  • Mt. Hood
  • Hallertau Mittelfruh (DEU)
  • Magnum (DEU)
  • Merkur (DEU)
  • Taurus (DEU)
  • Tradition (DEU)
Hallertau Mittelfruh (DEU)
  • Liberty
  • Vanguard
  • Tradition (DEU)
Helga (AUS)
  • Hallertau
Hersbruker (DEU)
  • Mt. Hood
  • Strisselpalt (FRA)
Horizon
  • Magnum
Liberty
  • Hallertau
  • Mt. Hood
  • Tradition (DEU)
Magnum
  • Columbus
  • Horizon
  • Nugget
  • Magnum (DEU)
Magnum (DEU)
  • Columbus
  • Nugget
Merkur (DEU)
  • Magnum
  • Taurus (DEU)
  • Tradition (DEU)
Millennium
  • Columbus
  • Nugget
  • Summit
Motueka (NZL)
  • Saaz
  • Sterling
Mt. Hood
  • Strisselpalt (FRA)
  • Hallertau Mittelfruh (DEU)
  • Hersbruker (DEU)
Mt. Rainier
  • Brewer’s Gold
  • Fuggle
  • Hallertau
Newport
  • Brewer’s Gold
  • Fuggle
  • Galena
  • Magnum
  • Nugget
Northdown (GBR)
  • Northern Brewer
  • Challenger (GBR)
Northern Brewer
  • Chinook
  • Galena
  • Northern Brewer (DEU)
Northern Brewer (DEU)
  • Chinook
  • Columbus
  • Galena
  • Magnum
  • Northern Brewer
  • Brewer’s Gold (DEU)
Nugget
  • Columbus
  • Galena
  • Magnum
Olympic
  • Chinook
Opal
  • Tettnang
  • East Kent Golding (GBR)
  • Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Pacific Gem (NZL)
  • Galena
Pacifica (NZL)
  • Hallertau
Palisade
  • Willamette
Perle
  • Northern Brewer
  • Northern Brewer (DEU)
  • Perle (DEU)
Perle (DEU)
  • Northern Brewer
  • Perle
Phoenix (GBR)
  • Northdown (GBR)
  • Challenger (GBR)
Pilgrim (GBR)
  • Target (GBR)
  • Challenger (GBR)
Pioneer (GBR)
  • East Kent Golding (GBR)
Progress (GBR)
  • Fuggle
  • East Kent Golding (GBR)
Rakau (NZL)
  • Amarillo
  • Summit
Saaz
  • Sterling
  • Saaz (CZE)
  • Lublin (POL)
Saaz (CZE)
  • Saaz
  • Sterling
  • Lublin (POL)
Santiam
  • Spalt (DEU)
  • Tettnang (DEU)
  • Select (DEU)
Saphir (DEU)
  • Hallertau
Select (DEU)
  • Saaz
  • Tettnang
  • Hersbruker (DEU)
  • Spalt (DEU)
  • Tettnang (DEU)
Simcoe
  • Magnum
  • Summit
Spalt (DEU)
  • Saaz
  • Tettnang
Sterling
  • Saaz (CZE)
  • Lublin (POL)
Sticklebract (NZL)
  • Northern Brewer (DEU)
Strisselpalt (FRA)
  • Crystal
  • Liberty
  • Mt. Hood
  • Hersbruker (GBR)
Styrian Aurora (SVN)
  • Styrian Bobek (SVN)
  • Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Styrian Celeia (SVN)
  • Saaz, Styrian Bobek (SVN)
  • Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
  • Fuggle
  • Fuggle (GBR)
  • Styrian Bobek (SVN)
Sylva (AUS)
  • Saaz (CZE)
Summit
  • Columbus
  • Millennium
  • Simcoe
  • Warrior
Target (GBR)
  • Fuggle
  • Willamette
Taurus (DEU)
  • Citra
  • Magnum
  • Tradition (DEU)
Tettnang
  • Fuggle
  • Santiam
  • Spalt (DEU)
Tettnang (DEU)
  • Saaz
  • Hersbruker (DEU)
  • Spalt (DEU)
  • Select (DEU)
Tradition (DEU)
  • Liberty
  • Hallertau Mittelfruh (DEU)
Tripleperle
  • Perle
Triskel (FRA)
  • Ahtanum
  • Centennial
  • Chinook
  • Simcoe
Ultra
  • Hallertau
Vanguard
  • Hallertau
  • Liberty
  • Mt. Hood
  • Hersbruker (DEU)
Warrior
  • Columbus
  • Magnum
  • Nugget
WGV (GBR)
  • East Kent Golding (GBR)
  • Progress (GBR)
Willamette
  • Fuggle
  • Glacier
  • Tettnang
  • Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/hop-substitutions/