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Showing posts with label #homebrewequipment. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #homebrewequipment. Show all posts
Sunday, January 5, 2020
BREW-BOSS COFI MASH INFUSION FILTER FOR 15 GALLON KETTLE
Monday, November 25, 2019
Brew Boss Black Friday Sale 2019!!
Brew Boss Black Friday Sale 2019!!
10 GALLON BREW-BOSS KETTLE KIT
10 Gallon Brew-Boss Kettle with Welded Tri-Clamp ferrules for the heaters and valve. This kettle includes three Tri-Clamp ferrules for the valve and dual heater assemblies. Also includes Cover, DELUXE Accessory Port, and Direct Contact Weldless Temperature Probe Mount.
Dia 350mm X H 420mm (13.75 in x 16.5 in) This is an optimum 1.2:1 ratio kettle!
This product was designed by Brew-Boss and is manufactured exclusively for Brew-Boss!
Beware of cheap copies with rubber band covers over the high voltage terminals and corrosive parts. They are not safe and are poorly constructed. The Brew-Boss heater is 100% potted with epoxy and is waterproof. No worries when cleaning about getting water inside the element.
It features an integrated 1.5" Tri-Clamp ferrule as well as an integrated L6-30P twist lock plug! Never has it been so easy to convert to electric brewing. No longer do you have to figure out how to enclose your heater element to make it safe. Any L6-30R twist lock receptacle will connect to this element or use the Brew-Boss Heater Cable for a perfect fit.
This heater requires a 1.5" Tri-Clamp flange on your kettle (all Brew-Boss kettles have this flange welded on). If you are converting to electric or have another brand of kettle, you can add a Tri-Clamp flange by having one welded on locally or by using our Weldless 1.5 Inch Tri-Clamp Bulkhead Adapter.
The element is constructed of shiny 304 stainless steel and will look like new for years. it is an ULWD (Ultra Low Watt Density) element, so no worries about scorching your wort.
The element itself is 14 inches long and the ferrule is a 1.5" Tri-Clamp. Please order the clamp and gasket separately as they are not included with this item.
This listing is for the heater element only. Pictures of the element with the mating Brew-Boss Heater cable are shown only to show how the components fit together.
120 VOLT 1650 WATT FOLDBACK HEATING ELEMENT WITH INTEGRATED L6-30P PLUG
This product is manufactured especially and exclusively for Brew-Boss!
It features an integrated 1.5" Tri-Clamp ferrule as well as an integrated L6-30P twist lock plug! Never has it been so easy to convert to electric brewing. No longer do you have to figure out how to enclose your heater element to make it safe. Any L6-30R twist lock receptacle will connect to this element or use the Brew-Boss Heater Cable for a perfect fit.
This heater requires a 1.5" Tri-Clamp flange on your kettle (all Brew-Boss kettles have this flange welded on). If you are converting to electric or have another brand of kettle, you can add a Tri-Clamp flange by having one welded on locally or by using our Weldless 1.5 Inch Tri-Clamp Bulkhead Adapter.
The element is constructed of shiny 304 stainless steel and will look like new for years. it is an ULWD (Ultra Low Watt Density) element, so no worries about scorching your wort.
The element itself is 9 inches long and the ferrule is a 1.5" Tri-Clamp. Please order the clamp and gasket separately as they are not included with this item.
This listing is for the heater element only.
10 GALLON BREW-BOSS KETTLE KIT
10 Gallon Brew-Boss Kettle with Welded Tri-Clamp ferrules for the heaters and valve. This kettle includes three Tri-Clamp ferrules for the valve and dual heater assemblies. Also includes Cover, DELUXE Accessory Port, and Direct Contact Weldless Temperature Probe Mount.
Dia 350mm X H 420mm (13.75 in x 16.5 in) This is an optimum 1.2:1 ratio kettle!
This product was designed by Brew-Boss and is manufactured exclusively for Brew-Boss!
Beware of cheap copies with rubber band covers over the high voltage terminals and corrosive parts. They are not safe and are poorly constructed. The Brew-Boss heater is 100% potted with epoxy and is waterproof. No worries when cleaning about getting water inside the element.
It features an integrated 1.5" Tri-Clamp ferrule as well as an integrated L6-30P twist lock plug! Never has it been so easy to convert to electric brewing. No longer do you have to figure out how to enclose your heater element to make it safe. Any L6-30R twist lock receptacle will connect to this element or use the Brew-Boss Heater Cable for a perfect fit.
This heater requires a 1.5" Tri-Clamp flange on your kettle (all Brew-Boss kettles have this flange welded on). If you are converting to electric or have another brand of kettle, you can add a Tri-Clamp flange by having one welded on locally or by using our Weldless 1.5 Inch Tri-Clamp Bulkhead Adapter.
The element is constructed of shiny 304 stainless steel and will look like new for years. it is an ULWD (Ultra Low Watt Density) element, so no worries about scorching your wort.
The element itself is 14 inches long and the ferrule is a 1.5" Tri-Clamp. Please order the clamp and gasket separately as they are not included with this item.
This listing is for the heater element only. Pictures of the element with the mating Brew-Boss Heater cable are shown only to show how the components fit together.
- 304 Stainless Steel
- 14" Long Ripple Style
- 240 Volts AC
- 5500 Watts
- Ultra Low Watt Density
- Integrated L6-30P Twist Lock Plug
- Integrated 1.5" Tri-Clamp Flange
- Epoxy filled making it waterproof
120 VOLT 1650 WATT FOLDBACK HEATING ELEMENT WITH INTEGRATED L6-30P PLUG
This product is manufactured especially and exclusively for Brew-Boss!
It features an integrated 1.5" Tri-Clamp ferrule as well as an integrated L6-30P twist lock plug! Never has it been so easy to convert to electric brewing. No longer do you have to figure out how to enclose your heater element to make it safe. Any L6-30R twist lock receptacle will connect to this element or use the Brew-Boss Heater Cable for a perfect fit.
This heater requires a 1.5" Tri-Clamp flange on your kettle (all Brew-Boss kettles have this flange welded on). If you are converting to electric or have another brand of kettle, you can add a Tri-Clamp flange by having one welded on locally or by using our Weldless 1.5 Inch Tri-Clamp Bulkhead Adapter.
The element is constructed of shiny 304 stainless steel and will look like new for years. it is an ULWD (Ultra Low Watt Density) element, so no worries about scorching your wort.
The element itself is 9 inches long and the ferrule is a 1.5" Tri-Clamp. Please order the clamp and gasket separately as they are not included with this item.
This listing is for the heater element only.
- 304 Stainless Steel
- 9" Long Foldback Style
- 120 Volts AC
- 1650 Watts
- Ultra Low Watt Density
- Integrated L6-30P Twist Lock Plug
- Integrated 1.5" Tri-Clamp Flange
This product is manufactured especially and exclusively for Brew-Boss! It is our highest wattage 120 volt element.
It features an integrated 1.5" Tri-Clamp ferrule as well as an integrated L6-30P twist lock plug! Never has it been so easy to convert to electric brewing. No longer do you have to figure out how to enclose your heater element to make it safe. Any L6-30R twist lock receptacle will connect to this element or use the Brew-Boss Heater Cable for a perfect fit. This element requires a 20 amp 120 volt AC circuit to operate. Most residential outlets are 15 amp circuits. Make certain that you have a 20 amp circuit if you plan to use this heater.
This heater requires a 1.5" Tri-Clamp flange on your kettle (all Brew-Boss kettles have this flange welded on). If you are converting to electric or have another brand of kettle, you can add a Tri-Clamp flange by having one welded on locally or by using our Weldless 1.5 Inch Tri-Clamp Bulkhead Adapter.
The element is constructed of shiny 304 stainless steel and will look like new for years. it is an ULWD (Ultra Low Watt Density) element, so no worries about scorching your wort.
The element itself is 9 inches long and the ferrule is a 1.5" Tri-Clamp. Please order the clamp and gasket separately as they are not included with this item.
It features an integrated 1.5" Tri-Clamp ferrule as well as an integrated L6-30P twist lock plug! Never has it been so easy to convert to electric brewing. No longer do you have to figure out how to enclose your heater element to make it safe. Any L6-30R twist lock receptacle will connect to this element or use the Brew-Boss Heater Cable for a perfect fit. This element requires a 20 amp 120 volt AC circuit to operate. Most residential outlets are 15 amp circuits. Make certain that you have a 20 amp circuit if you plan to use this heater.
This heater requires a 1.5" Tri-Clamp flange on your kettle (all Brew-Boss kettles have this flange welded on). If you are converting to electric or have another brand of kettle, you can add a Tri-Clamp flange by having one welded on locally or by using our Weldless 1.5 Inch Tri-Clamp Bulkhead Adapter.
The element is constructed of shiny 304 stainless steel and will look like new for years. it is an ULWD (Ultra Low Watt Density) element, so no worries about scorching your wort.
The element itself is 9 inches long and the ferrule is a 1.5" Tri-Clamp. Please order the clamp and gasket separately as they are not included with this item.
- 304 Stainless Steel
- 9" Long Foldback Style
- 120 Volts AC
- 2250 Watts
- Ultra Low Watt Density
- Integrated L6-30P Twist Lock Plug
- Integrated 1.5" Tri-Clamp Flange
Your Beer, Your Way!!!
Wednesday, August 7, 2019
CONDENSER-BOSS - STAINLESS STEEL ACCESSORY PORT MOUNTED STEAM CONDENSER
CONDENSER-BOSS - STAINLESS STEEL ACCESSORY PORT MOUNTED STEAM CONDENSER
Do you brew indoors and struggle with how to get rid of all the steam created during the brewing process, especially during the boil part of the brew process? Historically, home brewers installed electric fan exhaust hoods above their brew kettles and evacuated the steam to the outdoors. In fact, you've probably seen that method used in some of our demonstration videos. The problem with exhaust hoods is that all your conditioned air (heated or air conditioned) inside your home or brewery, is evacuated the outside while you are brewing. This means that your furnace/air conditioner has to work overtime to heat/cool the indoor air you air to keep up with what you are exhausting the outside! Over a 2 hour brew session, that represents a real cost as well as unnecessary wear and tear on your heating/cooling system.
Commercial breweries don't use exhaust hoods, instead they have elaborate and expensive steam condensing systems attached to their boil kettles to condense steam back down to water. We've been working over a year testing various designs for a smaller simpler condenser that we could offer for our homebrew and small brewery customers that would attach directly to our Brew-Boss and Brew-Boss Pro kettles without modification.
Introducing the Condenser-Boss. This really cool device mounts directly to the Deluxe Accessory port on your Brew-Boss kettle (or most other boil kettles). We've tried/tested/researched several designs, using our concepts, as well as information found on public homebrewing forums, to finally settle on this design.
When the steam condenses inside the device, the steam contracts and actually creates a vacuum inside the kettle, sucking the steam into the device. This assures that all the steam is evacuated and DMS is expelled. The result is a steady stream of warm water discharging at the bottom of the device. You can discharge this via a hose (not included) to a drain, let it drain into a bucket as we show in the video, or create a closed loop where you cool the water and pump it back into the cold water inlet.
We also provide a gasket that you press onto the rim of the kettle that provides a steam-proof seal between the cover and the kettle, so that no steam can exit the kettle through the lid gaps. We found placing some weights on the cover help prevent leakage around the lid.
After using this device for several brews, we've found that there was one huge, unexpected advantage, beyond eliminating the exhaust of our conditioned indoor air to the outside that we did not consider! We greatly reduced our electrical power used for the brew session!. Because the boil occurs with the cover on the kettle, the power requirement to maintain the boil was reduced to less than half! On our 20 gallon Brew-Boss system we use regularly, we typically had to boil at 63% power to maintain the proper boil. We-ve found that we can reduce that to 28% and maintain the same rolling boil! We feel sending 15 gallons of water down the drain, although not ecologically desirable, is way more than compensated by the power savings it provides during a 60-90 minute boil.
Condenser Boss includes a female garden hose fitting that allows you to connect directly to the discharge end of a garden hose. It also includes the mini flow control valve that allows you to turn the device off right at the device and to regulate water flow to minimize flow.
The cost of this item may seem high, but is much less than the alternative of installing an exhaust hood, and that doesn't even consider the ongoing cost of heating/cooling your indoor air every time you brew!
NOTE: If you don't own a Brew-Boss kettle, and want to use this device, you need to also purchase our Deluxe Accessory Port for your kettle. Installation of the accessory port requires drilling a 7/8" diameter hole near the top of your kettle.
YOUR BEER, YOUR WAY!
Brew Like a Boss!
#steamcondenser, #condenserboss, #brewboss, #homebrewequipment, #getridofsteam, #biab,
Friday, August 2, 2019
240 Volt 5500 Watt Stainless Steel Ripple Heating Element with integrated L6-30P Plug
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Your Beer, Your Way! Brew like a Boss!
#ssheatingelement, #homebrewequipment, # brewboss, #heatingelement, #beer
Monday, June 18, 2018
FILL-BOSS COUNTER PRESSURE BOTTLE AND GROWLER FILLER by Brew Boss
FILL-BOSS COUNTER PRESSURE BOTTLE AND GROWLER FILLER by Brew Boss
http://www.brew-boss.com/Fill-Boss-Counter-Pressure-Bottle-Filler-p/fill-boss.htm
Fill-Boss is the first "Automated" counter pressure bottle filler that is affordable enough to be purchased by home brewers but strong and fast enough to be used by nano and micro brewery operations as well. It is built like a tank from laser cut and formed 12 gauge 304 stainless steel. Fill-Boss is microprocessor controlled, so it fills bottles and growlers to exactly the right level every time, just by pressing one button! The simple design can be used for nano and microbrewery operations as well as brew-pubs that want to add inexpensive bottling and growler filling to their operations.
The innovative spring loaded adjustment system can adjust to most bottle sizes, including 1.5l wine bottles and growlers!
http://www.brew-boss.com/Fill-Boss-Counter-Pressure-Bottle-Filler-p/fill-boss.htm
Fill-Boss is the first "Automated" counter pressure bottle filler that is affordable enough to be purchased by home brewers but strong and fast enough to be used by nano and micro brewery operations as well. It is built like a tank from laser cut and formed 12 gauge 304 stainless steel. Fill-Boss is microprocessor controlled, so it fills bottles and growlers to exactly the right level every time, just by pressing one button! The simple design can be used for nano and microbrewery operations as well as brew-pubs that want to add inexpensive bottling and growler filling to their operations.
The innovative spring loaded adjustment system can adjust to most bottle sizes, including 1.5l wine bottles and growlers!
- Spill free automated counter pressure filling.
- Handles bottles from 8 to 14 inches tall and 5 inches in diameter.
- Maximum fill pressure is 30 psi for standard beer/wine bottles. Max pressure is lower for growlers and other vessels with larger openings.
- Handles bottles with openings from 0.75" to 1.25" with supplied silicone bottle seal (larger sizes with standard drilled rubber stoppers - not included see description below)
- Bottle non-carbonated or fully carbonated beverages from 5 Gallon Cornelius Kegs (Cornelius Keg, CO2 tank, and regulator required but not included) or from your brite tank or other storage vessel. (Note: This device does not actually carbonate your beverage. It allows you to fill bottles and growlers with a carbonated beverage with minimal foaming or losing carbonation)
- Programmable Fill Speed.
- Includes Ball Lock connectors and tubing for Ball-Lock Cornelius kegs or 1/4" NPT Threaded Quick Connect fittings for connecting to other vessels.
Contact us for special connections for Sanke Kegs and Brite Tanks. We will find a way to connect to your vessel!
We've received calls from a prospective customers asking "what is wrong with these units?" Why are they 1/3 the cost of other automatic fillers? The reason Fill-Boss is less costly than other options is that it was designed from the ground up to be an affordable and reliable filler. We use the Fill-Boss in our brew-on-premise operation daily and it has never hiccuped! One Fill-Boss commercial customer reports a 3-1/2 day payback when he switched to Fill-Boss! Yes, it is for real!
Most commercial operations use multiple fillers connected in parallel. Many people ask what the fill rate is. Unfortunately this is impossible to accurately predict as it depends on the carbonation level of the beverage, the type of beverage, and the pressure required for dispensing. One customer using two machines reported that they can clean, fill, and label a case every 10 min and essentially keep up with two machines. This is for a 22 oz bottle size, 12 bottle cases, filling beer. We've use the fillers at our Brew on Premise operation and have found that it takes 2 people about 25 minutes to bottle 2 cases of 12 ounce bottles (24 bottle cases) with 2 fillers. Your results may vary. We highly recommend at least two units for commercial operations.
There are several connection options to allow you to use the Fill-Boss with various beverage vessels. The Fill-Boss requires two connections, one for the CO2 (gas) supply and the other for the beverage. It is important that the pressure on the gas line match the pressure in the beverage vessel.
Most commercial operations use multiple fillers connected in parallel. Many people ask what the fill rate is. Unfortunately this is impossible to accurately predict as it depends on the carbonation level of the beverage, the type of beverage, and the pressure required for dispensing. One customer using two machines reported that they can clean, fill, and label a case every 10 min and essentially keep up with two machines. This is for a 22 oz bottle size, 12 bottle cases, filling beer. We've use the fillers at our Brew on Premise operation and have found that it takes 2 people about 25 minutes to bottle 2 cases of 12 ounce bottles (24 bottle cases) with 2 fillers. Your results may vary. We highly recommend at least two units for commercial operations.
There are several connection options to allow you to use the Fill-Boss with various beverage vessels. The Fill-Boss requires two connections, one for the CO2 (gas) supply and the other for the beverage. It is important that the pressure on the gas line match the pressure in the beverage vessel.
Your Beer, Your Way!
Brew like a Boss!
#counterpressurebottlefiller,#homebrewing,#brewboss
Tuesday, March 27, 2018
Brew Boss: WELDLESS 1.5" TRI-CLAMP BULKHEAD FLANGE ADAPTER
The Weldless 1.5" Tri-Clamp Bulkhead flange allows you to add a Triclamp (Triclover) port to any kettle with no welding or soldering. Just drill a 1-5/8" diameter hole and tighten the locknut. We recommend our 1-5/8" Hole Saw for installing this to your kettle.This adapter is a perfect mate for the Brew-Boss heaters with the integrated L6-30P plugs and Tri-Clamp flanges! It also works with our Triclamp Pickup Tube Adapter.
The flange measures 2" like all other 1.5" TC ferrules, and the overall length is just under 1". The ID is 1-3/8 just like standard 1.5" weld ferrules. The short length of this ferrule makes it possible to use ripple style heating elements and not have the foldback make contact with the ferrule. These are extremely high quality pieces machined out of 304SS and polished to perfection.
The O-ring is included and gets captured in a groove so it can't squirt out.
Installation Notes:
- Hole Size Required - 1-5/8" or 41mm. (Our 1-5/8" Hole Saw or a Greenlee Punch works best for this)
- The o-ring contact is on the flange side of the fitting so make sure there are no burrs on that side of the hole.
- The lock nut hex measures 2-1/16" or 52mm.
- The front of the flange does not have flats for a wrench. The easiest way to hold the front of the flange for tightening is to clamp any other TC part on with the gasket and clamp (a blank cap works great). Once tight, you can insert a long rod or screw driver into the hole of the wingnut.
- Works on kettles as small as 12" in diameter.
Your Beer, Your Way! Brew Like a Boss!
#weldlesstriclampbulkheadflange,#homebrewing,#brewparts
Monday, March 19, 2018
Brew Boss Homebrewing - Camlock Parts
Your Beer, Your Way! Brew like a Boss!
#camlock,#homebrew,#ebiab
BREW-BOSS: DIGITAL TEMPERATURE PROBE
BREW-BOSS DIGITAL TEMPERATURE PROBE
Brew Boss Temperature Sensor Probe with Plug. This is our new longer 4" temperature probe that allows for more penetration into the kettle, providing more accurate temperature readings.
#homebrewingequipment, #temperatureprobe
Your Beer, Your Way! Brew like a Boss!
Monday, December 11, 2017
Brew Boss - FastFerment Single
http://www.brew-boss.com/category-s/127.htm
Fast Ferment Single
Brew Boss FastFerment Single
http://www.brew-boss.com/product-p/ff-fermenter.htm
We at Brew-Boss have tested these units and love them and use them ourselves! Our expensive stainless conical just sits there gathering dust. No secondary racking means that you eliminate that work and don't risk contamination in the process. You can also easily harvest the yeast and reuse! We love them and highly recommend them! This kit includes (1) FastFerment Fermenters for 5 gallon batches. Each FastFerment unit includes wall mount brackets as well. This item is for 1 single
Fast Ferment Single
Brew Boss FastFerment Single
http://www.brew-boss.com/product-p/ff-fermenter.htm
We at Brew-Boss have tested these units and love them and use them ourselves! Our expensive stainless conical just sits there gathering dust. No secondary racking means that you eliminate that work and don't risk contamination in the process. You can also easily harvest the yeast and reuse! We love them and highly recommend them! This kit includes (1) FastFerment Fermenters for 5 gallon batches. Each FastFerment unit includes wall mount brackets as well. This item is for 1 single
FastFermenter with the items listed below.
Why Use FastFerment?
Features
Kit Contents(1) 7.9 US Gallon / 30 Litre Conical Fermenter
(1) 6" (15cm) Screw Top, Grommet for Airlock
(1) Bottom Collection Ball For Harvesting Yeast
1" (2.5cm) Union Teflon Valve and fittings
(1) Wall Mounts (2), Mounting Bolts & Anchors (4)
(1) 1/2" (2cm) PVC Hose (4'/120cm) & Hose Clamp
(1) Permanent Thermowell for Temperature Monitoring
Why Use FastFerment?
- Guaranteed Consistent Batches
- Primary & Secondary Fermentation in the Same Container
- No Transfers & No Racking - 80% Less Work
- Better Quality Product with No Sediment Contamination
- Increased Sanitation with Less Contamination
- Less Oxygen Exposure
- Ability to Harvest Yeast & Save $100s
Features
- Easy Cleaning and Batch Stirring - 6" (15cm) removable screw top
- Total Capacity 7.9 US Gallons/ 30 Litres - Made for 5 Gallon batches with blow offs
- Easy Wall Mounting System - Mounts to standard 16" (40cm) wall studs
- 33% Bigger Valve for Increased Flow Rate - 1" (2.5cm) Bottom valve compared vs. 3/4" (2cm)
- Collection Ball for Yeast Harvesting - Save $100's & harvest your Yeast Strains!
- Temp. Monitoring Capabilities - ThermoWell included - Thermometer Available.
Kit Contents(1) 7.9 US Gallon / 30 Litre Conical Fermenter
(1) 6" (15cm) Screw Top, Grommet for Airlock
(1) Bottom Collection Ball For Harvesting Yeast
1" (2.5cm) Union Teflon Valve and fittings
(1) Wall Mounts (2), Mounting Bolts & Anchors (4)
(1) 1/2" (2cm) PVC Hose (4'/120cm) & Hose Clamp
(1) Permanent Thermowell for Temperature Monitoring
http://www.brew-boss.com/product-p/ff-fermenter.htm
Your Beer, Your Way! Brew Like a Boss!
#homebrewequipment,#fastferment,#brewboss
Friday, November 24, 2017
Condenser-Boss Boil Kettle Steam Condenser Demonstration
Do you brew indoors and struggle with how to get rid of all the steam created during the brewing process, especially during the boil part of the brew process? Historically, home brewers installed electric fan exhaust hoods above their brew kettles and evacuated the steam to the outdoors. In fact, you've probably seen that method used in some of our demonstration videos. The problem with exhaust hoods is that all your conditioned air (heated or air conditioned) inside your home or brewery, is evacuated the outside while you are brewing. This means that your furnace/air conditioner has to work overtime to heat/cool the indoor air you air to keep up with what you are exhausting the outside! Over a 2 hour brew session, that represents a real cost as well as unnecessary wear and tear on your heating/cooling system.
Commercial breweries don't use exhaust hoods, instead they have elaborate and expensive steam condensing systems attached to their boil kettles to condense steam back down to water. We've been working over a year testing various designs for a smaller simpler condenser that we could offer for our homebrew and small brewery customers that would attach directly to our Brew-Boss and Brew-Boss Pro kettles without modification.
Introducing the Condenser-Boss. This really cool device mounts directly to the Deluxe Accessory port on your Brew-Boss kettle (or most other boil kettles). We've tried/tested/researched several designs, using our concepts, as well as information found on public homebrewing forums, to finally settle on this design. We especially thank BrunDog at homebrewtalk.com for his idea of using the Triclamp "T". You can see from the video, that this really works!
http://www.brew-boss.com/Condenser-Boss-Boil-Kettle-Condenser-p/cb-bb-apmount.htm
Commercial breweries don't use exhaust hoods, instead they have elaborate and expensive steam condensing systems attached to their boil kettles to condense steam back down to water. We've been working over a year testing various designs for a smaller simpler condenser that we could offer for our homebrew and small brewery customers that would attach directly to our Brew-Boss and Brew-Boss Pro kettles without modification.
Introducing the Condenser-Boss. This really cool device mounts directly to the Deluxe Accessory port on your Brew-Boss kettle (or most other boil kettles). We've tried/tested/researched several designs, using our concepts, as well as information found on public homebrewing forums, to finally settle on this design. We especially thank BrunDog at homebrewtalk.com for his idea of using the Triclamp "T". You can see from the video, that this really works!
http://www.brew-boss.com/Condenser-Boss-Boil-Kettle-Condenser-p/cb-bb-apmount.htm
Your Beer, Your Way!
Brew Like a Boss!!
#electrichomebrewequipment,#biab,#beer,#steamcondenser
Saturday, November 18, 2017
Announcing the Brew Boss - 2017 Black Friday Specials
Announcing the Brew Boss - 2017 Black Friday Specials!!
Friday November 24th Only!
Shop Now! Limited Quantities!
Get yourself something you know you will like for Christmas!
Your beer, Your Way!
Brew Like a Boss!
#electrichomebrewequipment,#ilovebrewboss,#biab
Tuesday, May 30, 2017
Brew Boss Temperature Sensor Probe with Plug
Brew Boss Temperature Sensor Probe with Plug. This is our new longer 4" temperature probe that allows for more penetration into the kettle, providing more accurate temperature readings. #homebrew
Your Beer Your Way! Brew like a Boss!
Sunday, May 28, 2017
AHA: An Introduction to Kegging Homebrew
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/an-introduction-to-kegging-homebrew/
An Introduction to Kegging Homebrew
Say goodbye to bottling and hello to the wonderful world of kegging! We’re here to walk you through the basics of kegging your homebrew. It’s easier than you may think!
Parts & Components
Kegs: Homebrewers tend to use five-gallon stainless steel Cornelius (“Corny”) kegs, which come in two types differentiated by their fittings: ball-lock or pin-lock. While people have reasons to favor one over the other, choose one and stick with it so you don’t need to worry about different connectors and fittings.
Connectors: Every keg has two connections, one for pushing in CO2 and the other for dispensing beer. Quick-disconnects are used for easy connection, which come in plastic or stainless steel. Pin lock gas and liquid connectors are noticeably different, but ball lock connectors can look nearly-identical, so consider buying different colors to quickly discern the gas connect from the beer connect.
CO2 Tank: CO2 is the gas used to carbonate and push out the beer into your glass. Homebrewers tend to use five-pound tanks, which are easier to transport, but if you dispense a lot of beer and aren’t worried about mobility a 20-gallon tank can be filled for only a few dollars more. If you choose to buy a tank, be sure it is certified.
Regulator: A full CO2 tank holds a pressure of 800 PSI, which is way more than necessary for carbonating and serving beer, so a regulator is used to provide safe levels of CO2. The regulator screws onto the CO2 tank and allows you to set the preferred PSI and monitor the pressure with a gauge.
Faucet: A faucet or tap is needed to control the flow of beer when serving. The cheapest option is to get a picnic tap, or you can build some sort of kegerator or jockeybox with a tap-handle for more attractive serving.
Tubing: Food-grade tubing is needed to connect the CO2 and faucet to the quick-disconnects.
O-Rings: O-rings are rubber circles used to create a tight seal in areas like the hatch of the keg. If you bought used kegs, it is wise to replace all the O-rings, especially if they have stains or an aroma.
Disassembly & Cleaning
If purchasing brand new kegs and components, it may not be necessary to clean before using—but it never hurts! The best way to ensure everything is thoroughly clean is to completely disassemble the keg.
Start by depressurizing the keg. If your keg has a pressure release valves, simply use this. If not, take a key or screwdriver and push down on the poppet of the gas-in fitting to allow gas to escape. Once this is done lift the bail of the hatch, lower it into the keg a few inches and remove. If the hatch doesn’t budge, that most likely means there is still pressure in the keg that needs to be released. Releasing all pressure is very important, and if ignored can cause injury.
After removing the hatch, you will notice a large O-ring around its top side. Remove the O-ring. Next, unscrew the gas and liquid fittings on the top of the keg and remove the dip tubes beneath them. Each fitting and each tube will have a small O-ring (four in total not counting the hatch O-ring). If you notice the O-rings are dirty or have an aroma, replace them. If the dip tubes are plastic and there are stainless steel options for your type of keg, it is strongly encouraged upgrade.
Once completely disassembled, the keg can be cleaned. First, rinse off any noticeable sediment inside the keg. Next, fill the keg with warm water and the appropriate amount of your preferred cleaner and throw in all the keg components. Allow the keg to soak for a few hours. If needed, use a carboy brush or something similar to get off any tedious stains or sediment.
Empty the keg of the cleaning solution and replace all the fittings along with the O-rings, taking care that the fittings and tubes are replaced correctly. Again, fill the keg with warm water and cleaner, seal with the hatch, and set the keg upside down for a few hours to cleanse the top of the keg’s inside. Rinse thoroughly multiple times with hot water.
Sanitation & Racking
Once your beer is ready for serving and you have a clean keg, it’s time to prepare the keg and transfer the beer.
First, sanitize the assembled keg thoroughly by filling it up with water and adding your preferred sanitizer. No-rinse sanitizer is recommended to avoid the need of an additional rinse step. Allow the keg to sit with the sanitizer solution for 10-20 minutes, then flip it upside down and let sit for 10-20 minutes to sanitize the top portion. Remove the hatch, empty the keg, and leave upside down to allow to drip-dry.
Once the keg is sanitized, it is time to prepare for racking by purging the keg of oxygen, which could cause oxidation. Connect the CO2 tank to the gas-in fitting and set the regulator to 5 PSI. Turn on the CO2, allow gas to flow for five seconds or so, and then turn off the CO2. Because CO2 is heavier than oxygen, it will fall to the bottom of the keg, forming a protective layer against oxygen as the beer is racked
After the initial purge, rack the beer into the keg and seal the hatch. Again, set the regulator to 5 PSI, turn on the CO2 to fill the keg’s head space, and turn off once you can no longer hear gas flowing. Open the pressure release valve to let the pressure out. Continue this process three or more times to purge remaining air from the headspace, and then shut off the CO2.
Carbonation & Serving
With the beer racked into the keg, it’s time to carbonate. Using the recipe or style guidelines, determine the ideal carbonation level, measured in volumes of CO2, for the style you are kegging. Generally speaking 2.0 volumes of CO2 will work if you are not sure where to start.
With a target carbonation level in mind, next take the temperature of the beer in the keg. The colder the beer, the more easily CO2 is dissolved, so it will effect the desired level of pressure. Download a complimentary copy of “A Bottler’s Guide to Kegging” and use Table 1 to determine the ideal level of pressure (PSI) to achieve the target carbonation level at the beer’s current temperature.
Now you’re ready to carbonate. Hook up the CO2 to the keg and set the regulator to the PSI determined using the table mentioned above. Turn on the CO2 tank and listen for the flow of gas. As the pressure reaches equilibrium the gas will begin to slow and eventually stop, and because the keg is upright there is only a small surface area of beer for the CO2 to dissolve.
While you can fully carbonate a keg with this method over the course of a few days, a little agitation will go a long way and carbonate the beer faster. Some will roll the keg on the ground as it’s connected to the CO2 to encourage more gas to dissolve into solution, though this is not recommended if your regulator does not have a check valve. You can also simply shake and slosh the keg around upright
An Introduction to Kegging Homebrew
Say goodbye to bottling and hello to the wonderful world of kegging! We’re here to walk you through the basics of kegging your homebrew. It’s easier than you may think!
Parts & Components
Kegs: Homebrewers tend to use five-gallon stainless steel Cornelius (“Corny”) kegs, which come in two types differentiated by their fittings: ball-lock or pin-lock. While people have reasons to favor one over the other, choose one and stick with it so you don’t need to worry about different connectors and fittings.
Connectors: Every keg has two connections, one for pushing in CO2 and the other for dispensing beer. Quick-disconnects are used for easy connection, which come in plastic or stainless steel. Pin lock gas and liquid connectors are noticeably different, but ball lock connectors can look nearly-identical, so consider buying different colors to quickly discern the gas connect from the beer connect.
CO2 Tank: CO2 is the gas used to carbonate and push out the beer into your glass. Homebrewers tend to use five-pound tanks, which are easier to transport, but if you dispense a lot of beer and aren’t worried about mobility a 20-gallon tank can be filled for only a few dollars more. If you choose to buy a tank, be sure it is certified.
Regulator: A full CO2 tank holds a pressure of 800 PSI, which is way more than necessary for carbonating and serving beer, so a regulator is used to provide safe levels of CO2. The regulator screws onto the CO2 tank and allows you to set the preferred PSI and monitor the pressure with a gauge.
Faucet: A faucet or tap is needed to control the flow of beer when serving. The cheapest option is to get a picnic tap, or you can build some sort of kegerator or jockeybox with a tap-handle for more attractive serving.
Tubing: Food-grade tubing is needed to connect the CO2 and faucet to the quick-disconnects.
O-Rings: O-rings are rubber circles used to create a tight seal in areas like the hatch of the keg. If you bought used kegs, it is wise to replace all the O-rings, especially if they have stains or an aroma.
Disassembly & Cleaning
If purchasing brand new kegs and components, it may not be necessary to clean before using—but it never hurts! The best way to ensure everything is thoroughly clean is to completely disassemble the keg.
Start by depressurizing the keg. If your keg has a pressure release valves, simply use this. If not, take a key or screwdriver and push down on the poppet of the gas-in fitting to allow gas to escape. Once this is done lift the bail of the hatch, lower it into the keg a few inches and remove. If the hatch doesn’t budge, that most likely means there is still pressure in the keg that needs to be released. Releasing all pressure is very important, and if ignored can cause injury.
After removing the hatch, you will notice a large O-ring around its top side. Remove the O-ring. Next, unscrew the gas and liquid fittings on the top of the keg and remove the dip tubes beneath them. Each fitting and each tube will have a small O-ring (four in total not counting the hatch O-ring). If you notice the O-rings are dirty or have an aroma, replace them. If the dip tubes are plastic and there are stainless steel options for your type of keg, it is strongly encouraged upgrade.
Once completely disassembled, the keg can be cleaned. First, rinse off any noticeable sediment inside the keg. Next, fill the keg with warm water and the appropriate amount of your preferred cleaner and throw in all the keg components. Allow the keg to soak for a few hours. If needed, use a carboy brush or something similar to get off any tedious stains or sediment.
Empty the keg of the cleaning solution and replace all the fittings along with the O-rings, taking care that the fittings and tubes are replaced correctly. Again, fill the keg with warm water and cleaner, seal with the hatch, and set the keg upside down for a few hours to cleanse the top of the keg’s inside. Rinse thoroughly multiple times with hot water.
Sanitation & Racking
Once your beer is ready for serving and you have a clean keg, it’s time to prepare the keg and transfer the beer.
First, sanitize the assembled keg thoroughly by filling it up with water and adding your preferred sanitizer. No-rinse sanitizer is recommended to avoid the need of an additional rinse step. Allow the keg to sit with the sanitizer solution for 10-20 minutes, then flip it upside down and let sit for 10-20 minutes to sanitize the top portion. Remove the hatch, empty the keg, and leave upside down to allow to drip-dry.
Once the keg is sanitized, it is time to prepare for racking by purging the keg of oxygen, which could cause oxidation. Connect the CO2 tank to the gas-in fitting and set the regulator to 5 PSI. Turn on the CO2, allow gas to flow for five seconds or so, and then turn off the CO2. Because CO2 is heavier than oxygen, it will fall to the bottom of the keg, forming a protective layer against oxygen as the beer is racked
After the initial purge, rack the beer into the keg and seal the hatch. Again, set the regulator to 5 PSI, turn on the CO2 to fill the keg’s head space, and turn off once you can no longer hear gas flowing. Open the pressure release valve to let the pressure out. Continue this process three or more times to purge remaining air from the headspace, and then shut off the CO2.
Carbonation & Serving
With the beer racked into the keg, it’s time to carbonate. Using the recipe or style guidelines, determine the ideal carbonation level, measured in volumes of CO2, for the style you are kegging. Generally speaking 2.0 volumes of CO2 will work if you are not sure where to start.
With a target carbonation level in mind, next take the temperature of the beer in the keg. The colder the beer, the more easily CO2 is dissolved, so it will effect the desired level of pressure. Download a complimentary copy of “A Bottler’s Guide to Kegging” and use Table 1 to determine the ideal level of pressure (PSI) to achieve the target carbonation level at the beer’s current temperature.
Now you’re ready to carbonate. Hook up the CO2 to the keg and set the regulator to the PSI determined using the table mentioned above. Turn on the CO2 tank and listen for the flow of gas. As the pressure reaches equilibrium the gas will begin to slow and eventually stop, and because the keg is upright there is only a small surface area of beer for the CO2 to dissolve.
While you can fully carbonate a keg with this method over the course of a few days, a little agitation will go a long way and carbonate the beer faster. Some will roll the keg on the ground as it’s connected to the CO2 to encourage more gas to dissolve into solution, though this is not recommended if your regulator does not have a check valve. You can also simply shake and slosh the keg around upright
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