Thursday, August 29, 2019

HOPS FILTER BASKET/SPIDER

HOPS-BOSS HOPS FILTER BASKET/SPIDER 6X16"




https://www.brew-boss.com/product-p/hb-filter0616.htm
Hops filter basket. Keeps hops sediment out of your wort. Filter is constructed of 100% 304 Stainless Steel and is 6" dia x 16" tall with brackets that hang on the side of most brew kettles. It works as a stand-alone unit or with the Hops-Boss unit as well (see picture). This filter fits 15 and 20 gallon kettles only when used with the Hops-Boss as it is too tall for the 10 gallon kettle, although it can be set on the bottom of the 10 gallon kettle and used as a stand-alone filter.























The basket is wrapped with 300 micron stainless steel wire mesh. 
  • 6" Diameter x16" Tall
  • 300 Micron
  • 100% 304 Stainless Steel
  • Easily cleaned




Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew like a Boss!


#hopsfilterspider, #hops, #brewboss, #homebrewingequipment, #biab


Wednesday, August 7, 2019

CONDENSER-BOSS - STAINLESS STEEL ACCESSORY PORT MOUNTED STEAM CONDENSER




















CONDENSER-BOSS - STAINLESS STEEL ACCESSORY PORT MOUNTED STEAM CONDENSER

Do you brew indoors and struggle with how to get rid of all the steam created during the brewing process, especially during the boil part of the brew process? Historically, home brewers installed electric fan exhaust hoods above their brew kettles and evacuated the steam to the outdoors. In fact, you've probably seen that method used in some of our demonstration videos. The problem with exhaust hoods is that all your conditioned air (heated or air conditioned) inside your home or brewery, is evacuated the outside while you are brewing. This means that your furnace/air conditioner has to work overtime to heat/cool the indoor air you air to keep up with what you are exhausting the outside! Over a 2 hour brew session, that represents a real cost as well as unnecessary wear and tear on your heating/cooling system.

Commercial breweries don't use exhaust hoods, instead they have elaborate and expensive steam condensing systems attached to their boil kettles to condense steam back down to water. We've been working over a year testing various designs for a smaller simpler condenser that we could offer for our homebrew and small brewery customers that would attach directly to our Brew-Boss and Brew-Boss Pro kettles without modification.

Introducing the Condenser-Boss. This really cool device mounts directly to the Deluxe Accessory port on your Brew-Boss kettle (or most other boil kettles). We've tried/tested/researched several designs, using our concepts, as well as information found on public homebrewing forums, to finally settle on this design. 


























The image above shows how simple this device is. It is constructed from off the shelf parts! Basically, cold water is mixed directly with steam to condense the steam inside a Triclamp "T". The device is clamped onto the accessory port on the kettle. A cold water supply is connected to the device. This cold water supply can be tap water or could be water that you recirculate through a chiller or large tank using a pump that delivers at least 20psi. The device uses about 9-15 gallons of water per hour, depending on the temperature of the water and the power input to the kettle. A flow control valve is included that allows you to regulate the flow to the lowest flow you can that eliminates any steam from exiting the device. Note the image shows a camlock fitting for cold water supply connection. The device you will receive will have a female garden hose connenction.

When the steam condenses inside the device, the steam contracts and actually creates a vacuum inside the kettle, sucking the steam into the device. This assures that all the steam is evacuated and DMS is expelled. The result is a steady stream of warm water discharging at the bottom of the device. You can discharge this via a hose (not included) to a drain, let it drain into a bucket as we show in the video, or create a closed loop where you cool the water and pump it back into the cold water inlet.

We also provide a gasket that you press onto the rim of the kettle that provides a steam-proof seal between the cover and the kettle, so that no steam can exit the kettle through the lid gaps. We found placing some weights on the cover help prevent leakage around the lid.

After using this device for several brews, we've found that there was one huge, unexpected advantage, beyond eliminating the exhaust of our conditioned indoor air to the outside that we did not consider! We greatly reduced our electrical power used for the brew session!. Because the boil occurs with the cover on the kettle, the power requirement to maintain the boil was reduced to less than half! On our 20 gallon Brew-Boss system we use regularly, we typically had to boil at 63% power to maintain the proper boil. We-ve found that we can reduce that to 28% and maintain the same rolling boil! We feel sending 15 gallons of water down the drain, although not ecologically desirable, is way more than compensated by the power savings it provides during a 60-90 minute boil.

Condenser Boss includes a female garden hose fitting that allows you to connect directly to the discharge end of a garden hose. It also includes the mini flow control valve that allows you to turn the device off right at the device and to regulate water flow to minimize flow.

The cost of this item may seem high, but is much less than the alternative of installing an exhaust hood, and that doesn't even consider the ongoing cost of heating/cooling your indoor air every time you brew!


NOTE: If you don't own a Brew-Boss kettle, and want to use this device, you need to also purchase our Deluxe Accessory Port for your kettle. Installation of the accessory port requires drilling a 7/8" diameter hole near the top of your kettle.



YOUR BEER, YOUR WAY!
Brew Like a Boss!



#steamcondenser, #condenserboss, #brewboss, #homebrewequipment, #getridofsteam, #biab, 

Tuesday, August 6, 2019

Brew Boss: DELUXE CAMLOCK ACCESSORY PORT












DELUXE CAMLOCK ACCESSORY PORT

Convert your kettle to use the Brew-Boss Sparge/Sprayer Wands, COFI infusion filters, and/or Swirl-Boss whirlpool device. This port has a Camlock nipple on the inside and outside of the kettle. Simply drill a 7/8" diameter hole near the top edge of your kettle. Includes two Camlock nipples, high temperature gasket, and special thin stainless steel washer.







Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew like a Boss!


#camlockaccessoryport #camlock #brewboss #homebrewequipment #brewkettle


Friday, August 2, 2019

240 Volt 5500 Watt Stainless Steel Ripple Heating Element with integrated L6-30P Plug




This product was designed by Brew-Boss and is manufactured exclusively for Brew-Boss! 

Beware of cheap copies with rubber band covers over the high voltage terminals and corrosive parts. They are not safe and are poorly constructed. The Brew-Boss heater is 100% potted with epoxy and is waterproof. No worries when cleaning about getting water inside the element.

It features an integrated 1.5" Tri-Clamp ferrule as well as an integrated L6-30P twist lock plug! Never has it been so easy to convert to electric brewing. No longer do you have to figure out how to enclose your heater element to make it safe. Any L6-30R twist lock receptacle will connect to this element or use the Brew-Boss Heater Cable for a perfect fit.

This heater requires a 1.5" Tri-Clamp flange on your kettle (all Brew-Boss kettles have this flange welded on). If you are converting to electric or have another brand of kettle, you can add a Tri-Clamp flange by having one welded on locally or by using our Weldless 1.5 Inch Tri-Clamp Bulkhead Adapter

The element is constructed of shiny 304 stainless steel and will look like new for years. it is an ULWD (Ultra Low Watt Density) element, so no worries about scorching your wort.

The element itself is 14 inches long and the ferrule is a 1.5" Tri-Clamp. Please order the clamp and gasket separately as they are not included with this item. 

This listing is for the heater element only. Pictures of the element with the mating Brew-Boss Heater cable are shown only to show how the components fit together. 

  • 304 Stainless Steel
  • 14" Long Ripple Style
  • 240 Volts AC
  • 5500 Watts
  • Ultra Low Watt Density
  • Integrated L6-30P Twist Lock Plug
  • Integrated 1.5" Tri-Clamp Flange
  • Epoxy filled making it waterproof


Click to Buy:



Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew like a Boss!


#ssheatingelement, #homebrewequipment, # brewboss, #heatingelement, #beer

When and How to Measure and Adjust Mash pH for Beer Brewing by BeerSmith

http://beersmith.com/blog/2017/10/18/when-and-how-to-measure-and-adjust-mash-ph-for-beer-brewing/

When and How to Measure and Adjust Mash pH for Beer Brewing


by BRAD SMITH

At a recent homebrew club meeting, one of the members asked me a brilliant question – when and how should you adjust your mash pH when all grain beer brewing? This is a devilishly complex question as you want to adjust your mash pH quickly if brewing with modern malts.

The Mash pH Conundrum

I and others have written extensively on the importance of controlling your mash pHand maintaining it in the range of 5.2-5.6 during the sugar conversion step. A proper mash pH contributes to better flavor, complete conversion, and improved long term stability.

You can use additives like lactic acid and phosphoric acid to quickly adjust your mash pH, and I wrote an article recently on the purchase and care of a pH meter. So one might assume you can just use your pH meter to measure the mash pH after dough-in of the grains and then adjust it using lactic acid from the homebrew shop — right?

The problem is that most modern malts are very highly modified, which means they have a lot more enzymes (diastatic power) than is really needed to convert the sugars in your crushed grains into fermentable forms. Time is also working against us since it takes easily 10-15 minutes to dough in and stabilize the mash pH so it can be measured. Modern highly modified pale malts can in many cases convert the sugars within 20-30 minutes.

It could take 10-15 minutes to dough in, and another 5-10 minutes to get the mash sample down to room temperature to take a proper measurement then calculate and add the right amount of lactic acid. Which means it is possible for the majority of your conversion step to be complete before you’ve measured and adjusted your pH!

Managing Mash pH Properly

Fortunately you can estimate both your predicted mash pH and the predicted acid adjustment needed using software. Here’s a detailed article on how to do it in BeerSmith. The only problem here is that the pH estimate is exactly that – an estimate!

So the compromise I’ve settled on is to use BeerSmith to estimate my mash pH, then use that estimated value to determine the amount of lactic acid to use. Then what I do is add about 80% of that acid up front before I mash in. This usually gets my mash pH within the acceptable 5.2-5.6 range, and then I will take a measurement with my pH meter after I dough in and make any fine adjustments needed with some additional acid based on that measurement.

The advantage of this technique is that by adding most of the acid up front, I’m assuring that the mash pH starts in the acceptable range. However, by also measuring and making a final pH adjustment I’m assuring that the pH is stable if the mash conversion takes longer but most importantly assuring the correct pH to support the long term stability of the beer.

This is the best compromise between treating your mash based only on an estimate, and treating your mash pH based on an actual pH measurement.




Your Beer, Your Way!  Brew like a Boss!


#homebrew #measureph #beerbrewing #brewboss #hops #mash,