Celebrate National Beer Day - April 7th

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#homebrew #brewyourown #nationalbeerday



It's an unofficial holiday that is officially celebrated by beer lovers everywhere: #NationalBeerDay!

National Beer Day is celebrated on April 7 every year, which marks the day in 1933, the first day in 13 years that people could legally buy, sell, and drink beer.

National Beer Day is a celebration of the Cullen–Harrison Act being signed into law by President Franklin D. Roosevelt on March 22, 1933. Upon signing the legislation, Roosevelt made his famous remark, "I think this would be a good time for a beer."

People across the country responded by gathering outside breweries, some beginning the night before. On that first day, 1.5 million barrels of beer were consumed, inspiring the future holiday which started in 2009.

7 Tips on Brewing German Wheat Beers

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Chris Swersey and Chuck Skypeck currently serve as technical staffers at the Brewers Association (BA). Both had long careers as craft brewers before joining the BA staff. As brewers at Mickey Finn’s (Libertyville, Illinois), Leinenkugel’s Ballyard Brewery (Phoenix, Arizona), and Boscos (Tennessee and Arkansas), Swersey and Skypeck racked up 14 Great American Beer Festival and World Beer Cup medals in various German-style wheat beer categories ranging from the light Leichtes style through Bavarian Hefeweizen and on to Dunkelweiss.

Consider these tips from the (former) pros next time you fire up your burners to brew a traditional tasting German-style wheat beer.

1) Pick the Right Yeast for the Job

Select your yeast strain carefully to develop the flavor profile you desire. Different stains produce varying amounts of the esters and flavor compounds associated with German-style wheat beers. Choose a strain that emphasizes the characteristics you desire.

If you plan to harvest and repitch yeast, know and expect that many of the popular strains are very labile: That is, the flavor profile will wander within one or two batches of beer, and the yeast will very quickly lose viability, sometimes after just one repitch. Top cropping and immediate repitching are the only solutions to this problem.

2) Explore the Varieties of Wheat

Consider the type of wheat you would like to use in your brew. Do you want the full, grainy taste of a hard winter red wheat or the light delicate flavor of a white summer variety? Research your options.

3) Aim For Refined Hop Character

Keep hops bitterness and flavor low so that wheat and yeast character can shine. Variety matters! Select a noble variety with spicy, herbal flavors that will balance and blend with flavors generated by your yeast. Shoot for 10-15 BUs, early in the kettle, with very low aroma.

4) Know Your Water

Traditional German-style wheat beers are brewed with a wide range of water profiles that vary from soft to moderately hard. The goal would be to make sure your mash is in the optimum pH range: 5.2 to 5.6. If mineral additions are necessary, use chloride to enhance the beer’s texture rather than sulfate, which will enhance bitterness.

5) Make a Mash Plan

Mashing can be as simple as a single-step infusion mash, or you might include a ferulic acid rest (to enhance development of 4-vinyl-guaiacol, which produces clove like flavors) at 105–112°F (40–44°C) and/or a protein rest at 120-128°F (49–53°C) before saccharification. Keep saccharification temperatures low if you want the light body typical of the style. Raising the temperature during mash out will help to avoid a “stuck mash.”

6) Avoid a “Stuck Mash”

Wheat beer mashes have a reputation for being a little ornery when it comes time to run off because wheat malt lacks husks. If you mill your own grain, adjust the mill to grind your wheat malt more coarsely than the barley malt. Try to minimize the amount of flour out of the mill, and make wheat malt the last addition to the mash tun so that malts with husks rest on the false bottom or lautering screen. Mix the remainder of the barley and wheat malts thoroughly to avoid stratification.

Rice hulls added to the mash can help maintain porosity; try a pound (0.45 kg) in the mash for a 5-gallon (19 liter) batch.

7) Fermentation Temperature

Even with the same yeast strain, slight variations in fermentation temperature can produce profoundly different results. Find the sweet spot where the yeast generates the flavors you desire in your finished beer, dial in the temperature, and keep fermentation in a narrow temperature range. Consider pitching at a temperature below your intended control temperature (For example, pitch at 65°F/18°C for a 68°F/20°C fermentation).

Be sure to allow fermentation to finish completely, as weizen yeasts are prone to diacetyl production in underattenuated beer. Don’t chill your beer too soon at the end of fermentation, and consider allowing the temperature to rise for a day or so after fermentation is complete just to be safe.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/7-tips-brewing-german-wheat-beers/

What Would Ben Franklin Drink?

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Since the Pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock, brewing beer has been an integral component of American culture. In fact, Plymouth Rock was the “chosen” location simply because there was no beer left on the ships to appease the weary travelers. Everyday life without beer was out of the question, and brew houses were quickly built to quench the thirst of a future nation.

Fast forward a decade to the mid-late 18th century when one of America’s most notable forefathers, Benjamin Franklin, was in the height of his influential career. Remembered for his role in drafting the Declaration of Independence and dedication to the abolition movement, amongst countless other achievements, Franklin was also known to quaff the finest colonial ales.

Colonial Ales

The beers brewed by America’s forefathers were conceived and created similarly to those made by homebrewers and commercial brewers today. Recipes and styles were largely influenced by available local ingredients, ingredient prices and of course by the tastes of those swilling the ales.

During Franklin’s era some malt and hops were grown domestically, though the yield and quality of harvests were unreliable at best. Because of this, malt and hops were still imported from Europe, making the ingredients very expensive and causing brewers to think beyond the traditional beer recipes of Europe.

Local adjuncts were utilized for more fermentable sugars to supplement the less-than-desirable American malt and the expensive imported grains. Molasses, a very popular sweetener in colonial times, and corn were both common sources of sugar in beer making. Additional local ingredients such as pumpkin, spruce and imported spices were utilized to create more complex, flavorful beers.

But What Did Ben Drink?

Based on brewing and agricultural trends from the 18th century, along with some careful speculation, Tony Simmons of Pagosa Brewing Co. (Pagosa Springs, Colo.) developed a recipe deemed the most likely to be the choice ale of Franklin by a panel of experts at the 2005 Great American Beer Festival(R).

Simmons notes that Franklin was said to enjoy “strong, harvest-time ale,” but not so strong that he couldn’t carry on an intellectual conversation after having a few pints. Furthermore, popular styles of the time, such as porter and lager, were discounted because they were not prevalent in the colonies at this point. Based on this assessment, Simmons deduced Franklin’s style of choice to be similar to a medium-strength old ale of today, but it doesn’t end there.

Old ale is typically balanced towards malty-sweet, but there can also be prominent hop characteristics. In Franklin’s time, this was likely not the case. “I believe due to high cost of imported hops and the documented hop shortages in Colonial America, the hopping rates would have been appreciably less than that of old ale and more comparable to a strong Scotch ale,” said Simmons.

Poor Richard’s Ale Recipe

Tony Simmons’ colonial recipe, Poor Richard’s Ale, was brewed by 100 breweries across 35 states to celebrate Franklin’s 300th birthday on January 17, 2006. Poor Richard’s Ale was also the 2006 Big Brew recipe, with more than 3,000 homebrewers participating in making a batch of the colonial ale.

Simmons offers this description of the original recipe:

“Poor Richard’s Ale has a complex aroma with a pleasant malty, corny, and slightly nutty character, enhanced by a slight molasses-spiced undertone that adds an almost fine tobacco-like quality. The flaked corn will lighten the body and provide a nice counterbalance to malt flavors. Hop bitterness and flavor are designed to be medium-low. The molasses will add an additional level of spiciness/bitterness that will compensate for the lower IBU level (providing an impression of more bitterness than a typical Strong Scotch Ale.)”

All-Grain Ingredients for 5 U.S. gallons

6.75 lb | Maris Otter
2.75 lb | Flaked Corn
1.75 lb | Biscuit
1.0 lb | Special Roast
2.0 oz | Black Patent
4.0 oz | Dark Molasses
0.5 oz | Kent Golding, 5% AA (60 minutes)
0.75 oz | Kent Golding, 5% AA (45 minutes)
0.5 oz | Kent Golding, 5% AA (30 minutes)
Yeast | English (WLP002 or WY1968) or Scottish (WLP028 or WY1728)

Directions

Mash at 154°F for 45 minutes or until complete conversion. Boil 90 minutes, following the hop additions as noted. Add the dark molasses at 15 minutes to the end of the boil. Cool the wort to 68°F and transfer to a fermenter. Take a gravity reading and then pitch the yeast and aerate well. Carbonate to a level similar to an old ale or strong Scotch ale (1.9 – 2.2 volumes of CO2).
Brewing Up a Revolution

In 2013, the AHA staff gathered to whip up an extract version of the recipe to serve at Club Night during the National Homebrewers Conference in Franklin’s old stomping ground, Philadelphia!

Because the recipe includes Biscuit malt, which the team wanted to include, the recipe requires a mini-mash of sorts. The grains, less the Maris Otter and flaked corn, were steeped in 154°F water for 45 minutes and sparged with 170°F water. Five and a half pounds of light liquid malt extract were substituted for the entire Maris Otter portion of the grist, one and a half pounds of corn sugar substituted for the flaked corn, and Safale S-04 substituted for the recommended yeast—all ingredients that were on hand. For the extract and all-grain recipes used in Big Brew 2006, visit the AHA’sHomebrewopedia!

The final gravity weighed in at 1.064, a bit lower than the intended 1.068, likely due to the lax “mini-mash,” but Tony Simmons notes that an original gravity in the range of 1.060 and 1.086 will produce a colonial ale akin to what Franklin may have enjoyed. The sample tasted very sweet, with prominent molasses characteristics. Some noted a burnt marshmallow characteristic. Let’s hope we did old Ben some justice!

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/what-would-ben-franklin-drink/

A Balancing Act: How to Balance Your Home Draft System

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by Dave Carpenter, Editor-in-Chief of ZymurgyMagazine

Most of us don’t realize how heavy a garage door is until we have to deal with one whose spring has broken, professional installers excepted. When the spring springs (usually when you’re leaving for work) you have to go about the tedious business of disconnecting the garage door opener, heroically heaving open the door, backing out the car, and running for your life when the full weight of the door comes crashing back down. It is then that you learn just how much these things weigh.

And when it comes time to replace that broken spring, getting the right size is crucial. Too small, and the automatic opener struggles to perform its eponymous task. Too large, and the door is hard to close. An effective garage door spring supplies just enough upward force to make a large steel door featherweight to operate and make you feel like a superhero.

I bring this up because understanding how to balance your home draft system is a lot like choosing a garage door spring. In fact, it’s fundamentally the same thing.

Opposing forces

Just like a garage door, a well-designed draft system successfully balances two opposing forces. In the case of the door, these are:

1. The weight of the door itself, and
2. The force supplied by the spring.

Similarly, a good draft system needs to balance:

1. The gas pressure that propels beer out of the keg, through the beverage line, out of the faucet, and into your glass; and
2. The total resistance that tries to keep the beer from moving forward through your kegging system.

Using our garage door analogy, pressure is like the weight of the garage door, while resistance is similar to the spring. Let’s consider each in turn.

Giving in to Pressure

Pressure from carbon dioxide serves two roles in a draft system:

1. It pushes beer from the keg to your glass.
2. It maintains proper carbonation in the keg.

Without top-pressure from carbon dioxide, a keg will gradually go flat as it empties, just as an opened bottle of beer does if left out on the counter overnight. And you need the right amount. Too much pressure, and the beer will gradually overcarbonate. Too little, and it will lose carbonation with time. Remember, carbonation always adjusts to match the carbon dioxide pressure in the headspace above the beer (Henry’s Law).

So, the very first step in balancing your draft system is to determine the proper carbonation level for your beer. This number may vary from one style to another (a spritzy Bavarian hefeweizen needs more carbonation than a simple English bitter), but a good, all-purpose number is 2.4 to 2.6 volumes. Most commercial kegs are carbonated in this range.

Now carbonation level varies with both applied pressure and storage temperature. So the next step is to figure out what serving pressure delivers the carbonation you want at the temperature at which your beer is stored. Most commercial setups are designed around a 38°F storage temperature with 2.6 volumes of carbon dioxide, so that’s what we’ll assume here.

You can calculate how much pressure is needed to achieve a given carbonation level at a given pressure, or you can use a chart. I prefer a chart. This one comes courtesy of the Draught Beer Quality Manual, a publication of the Brewers Association.

Carbonation Level Chart
* Chart assumes sea-level elevations. Add 1 psi for every 2,000 feet above sea level.
Vol. CO2 →	2.1	2.2	2.3	2.4	2.5	2.6	2.7	2.8	2.9	3.0	3.1
Temp. (ºF)	psi*	psi*	psi*	psi*	psi*	psi*	psi*	psi*	psi*	psi*	psi*
33	5.0	6.0	6.9	7.9	8.8	9.8	10.7	11.7	12.6	13.6	14.5
34	5.2	6.2	7.2	8.1	9.1	10.1	11.1	12.0	13.0	14.0	15.0
35	5.6	6.6	7.6	8.6	9.7	10.7	11.7	12.7	13.7	14.8	15.8
36	6.1	7.1	8.2	9.2	10.2	11.3	12.3	13.4	14.4	15.5	16.5
37	6.6	7.6	8.7	9.8	10.8	11.9	12.9	14.0	15.1	16.1	17.2
38	7.0	8.1	9.2	10.3	11.3	12.4	13.5	14.5	15.6	16.7	17.8
39	7.6	8.7	9.8	10.8	11.9	13.0	14.1	15.2	16.3	17.4	18.5
40	8.0	9.1	10.2	11.3	12.4	13.5	14.6	15.7	16.8	17.9	19.0
41	8.3	9.4	10.6	11.7	12.8	13.9	15.1	16.2	17.3	18.4	19.5
42	8.8	9.9	11.0	12.2	13.3	14.4	15.6	16.7	17.8	19.0	20.1

Using the chart, we find that maintaining 2.6 volumes of CO2 in solution at 38°F means applying carbon dioxide at 12.4 pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure. As long as we maintain the same temperature and applied pressure, the beer in the keg will remain carbonated at 2.6 volumes from the first glass to the last.

Now here’s the kicker. The very same pressure that maintains carbonation in your beeralso has to push it out of the keg and through the draft lines. That’s the essence of what we call a direct-draw draft system, which is what virtually all kegerators are. The beer is drawn directly from the keg, hence the name. And this is the fundamental trick with direct-draw systems:

In a direct-draw draft system, the pressure at which beer is pushed through the lines must be the same as that required to maintain carbonation in the keg.

More complex systems like long-draw draft setups use a blend of carbon dioxide and an insoluble gas like nitrogen to push beer at higher pressures without introducing too much CO2. But we won’t deal with those here.

Vive la résistance

So, we know our serving pressure. Great! But if we were to just hook up a faucet directly to the keg, with no beverage line in between, beer would come shooting out at a high speed, and you’d end up with a lot of foam and spilled beer. That’s whereresistance comes in.

Resistance is what slows down your beer en route from keg to glass, so that beer comes out of the faucet nice and slow. And in most setups, there are only two things that provide resistance:

1. Gravity
2. Friction in the beverage lines

You already know about gravity. If you point a garden hose into the sky, the water eventually falls back to the earth, no matter how high you shoot it. The same is true for beer. The constant pull of gravity slows it down, and it just so happens that the amount of this pull is easy to calculate:

For every foot of height between the keg and the faucet, gravity reduces the effective pressure by about 0.5 pounds per square inch.

So, let’s say that from the chart above, you’re serving your beer at 12.4 psi. If you’re using a typical draft tower setup, the faucet might be located about two feet above the center of the keg. In that case, gravity offers about 1 psi of resistance, which means you need to supply another 11.4 psi of resistance to overcome the remainder.

The solution for most homebrewers is to simply use enough line to make up the difference, and that’s where friction in the beverage lines comes in. The amount of line you need depends on the type of line you have. Again, the Draught Beer Quality Manual offers some help:

Type	Size	Restriction	Volume
Restriction values for several types of beverage line
Vinyl	3/16” ID	3.00 psi/ft	1/6 oz/ft
Vinyl	1/4” ID	0.85 psi/ft	1/3 oz/ft
Vinyl	5/16” ID	0.40 psi/ft	1/2 oz/ft
Vinyl	3/8” ID	0.20 psi/ft	3/4 oz/ft
Vinyl	1/2” ID	0.025 psi/ft	1-1/3 oz/ft
Barrier	1/4” ID	0.30 psi/ft	1/3 oz/ft
Barrier	5/16” ID	0.10 psi/ft	1/2 oz/ft
Barrier	3/8” ID	0.06 psi/ft	3/4 oz/ft
Stainless	1/4” OD	1.20 psi/ft	1/6 oz/ft
Stainless	5/16” OD	0.30 psi/ft	1/3 oz/ft
Stainless	3/8” OD	0.12 psi/ft	1/2 oz/ft

Let’s say, then, that you are using 1/4” inner diameter (ID) vinyl beverage line. According to the chart, it supplies 0.85 psi of resistance per foot of tubing. If you need to overcome 11.4 psi, then you’ll need 11.4 psi ÷ 0.85 psi/ft = 13 feet of beverage line or so.

Thus, in our hypothetical example, a keg of beer stored at 38°F and carbonated to 2.6 volumes of CO2 should pour perfectly if the faucet is located 2 feet higher than the keg and we have at least 13 feet of beverage line. Easy peasy.

Summary

Balancing your draft system is straightforward if you follow these simple steps.

1. Choose a carbonation level that you wish to maintain in your beer. About 2.4 to 2.6 volumes of CO2 is a good number if you don’t have a good reason to do differently.
2. Based on the temperature in your kegerator, select the serving pressure that will deliver that level of carbonation (accounting for elevation, if necessary, by adding 0.5 psi for every 1,000 feet above sea level). This is the pressure you need to balance.
3. Account for the effects of gravity by subtracting 0.5 psi for every vertical foot between the center of your keg and the faucet. If by some chance the faucet is below the keg, then add 0.5 psi per foot of vertical instead of subtracting.
4. Based on the type of beverage line you use, divide the remaining number by the resistance to obtain the number of feet of line you need.

Remember, you need only do this once, and as long as nothing changes, your system should happily serve you pint after foam-free pint. Cheers!

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/a-balancing-act-how-to-balance-your-home-draft-system/

Hop Substitutions

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What do you do when you are unable to find a #hop variety online or at your local homebrew shop? Hopefully you’re not throwing in the proverbial towel!

Many hop varieties can be used instead of hard to obtain hops with great success.

All of the hop substitutions suggested below were provided by YCH Hops. All hop varieties are domestic (USA) unless labeled otherwise.

Use the following key to help identify hop variety origins:

• AUS – Australia
• CZE – Czech
• DEU – Germany
• FRA – France

• GBR – Great Britain
• NZL – New Zealand
• POL – Poland
• SVN – Slovenia

Visit YCH Hop’s hop variety section of their website for more in depth descriptions off all the hops listed below!

Hop Variety	Possible Hop Substitution
Admiral (GBR)	Northdown (GBR) Target (GBR) Challenger (GBR)
Ahtanum	Cascade
Amarillo	Cascade Centennial Simcoe
Aramis (FRA)	Centennial Chinook Hallertau Tettnang
Bitter Gold	Galena Nugget
Bramling Cross (GBR)	East Kent Golding (GBR) Progress (GBR)
Bravo	Columbus Magnum Nugget
Brewer’s Gold	Chinook Galena Nugget
Brewer’s Gold (DEU)	Galena Northern Brewer Northdown (GBR)
Bullion	Brewer’s Gold Chinook Columbus Galena Northern Brewer
Cascade	Ahtanum Amarillo Centennial
Centennial	Cascade Chinook Columbus
Challenger (GBR)	Northern Brewer Perle (DEU)
Chelan	Galena Nugget
Chinook	Columbus Northern Brewer Nugget
Citra	Galaxy (AUS) Taurus (DEU)
Cluster	Galena
Columbia	Fuggle
Columbus	Chinook Galena Millennium Nugget
Comet	Galena Summit
Crystal	Hallertau Liberty Mt. Hood Strisselpalt (FRA) Hersbruker (DEU)
East Kent Golding (GBR)	Golding Progress (GBR)
Eroica	Brewer’s Gold Galena Glacier Bullion
First Gold (GBR)	Crystal East Kent Golding (GBR)
Fuggle	Willamette Fuggle (GBR) Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Fuggle (GBR)	Fuggle Wilamette Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Galaxy (AUS)	Citra
Galena	Brewer’s Gold Columbus Nugget
Glacier	Fuggle Willamette Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Golding	Fuggle Willamette East Kent Golding (GBR) Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Green Bullet (NZL)	Fuggle Willamette
Hallertau	Liberty Mt. Hood Hallertau Mittelfruh (DEU) Magnum (DEU) Merkur (DEU) Taurus (DEU) Tradition (DEU)
Hallertau Mittelfruh (DEU)	Liberty Vanguard Tradition (DEU)
Helga (AUS)	Hallertau
Hersbruker (DEU)	Mt. Hood Strisselpalt (FRA)
Horizon	Magnum
Liberty	Hallertau Mt. Hood Tradition (DEU)
Magnum	Columbus Horizon Nugget Magnum (DEU)
Magnum (DEU)	Columbus Nugget
Merkur (DEU)	Magnum Taurus (DEU) Tradition (DEU)
Millennium	Columbus Nugget Summit
Motueka (NZL)	Saaz Sterling
Mt. Hood	Strisselpalt (FRA) Hallertau Mittelfruh (DEU) Hersbruker (DEU)
Mt. Rainier	Brewer’s Gold Fuggle Hallertau
Newport	Brewer’s Gold Fuggle Galena Magnum Nugget
Northdown (GBR)	Northern Brewer Challenger (GBR)
Northern Brewer	Chinook Galena Northern Brewer (DEU)
Northern Brewer (DEU)	Chinook Columbus Galena Magnum Northern Brewer Brewer’s Gold (DEU)
Nugget	Columbus Galena Magnum
Olympic	Chinook
Opal	Tettnang East Kent Golding (GBR) Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Pacific Gem (NZL)	Galena
Pacifica (NZL)	Hallertau
Palisade	Willamette
Perle	Northern Brewer Northern Brewer (DEU) Perle (DEU)
Perle (DEU)	Northern Brewer Perle
Phoenix (GBR)	Northdown (GBR) Challenger (GBR)
Pilgrim (GBR)	Target (GBR) Challenger (GBR)
Pioneer (GBR)	East Kent Golding (GBR)
Progress (GBR)	Fuggle East Kent Golding (GBR)
Rakau (NZL)	Amarillo Summit
Saaz	Sterling Saaz (CZE) Lublin (POL)
Saaz (CZE)	Saaz Sterling Lublin (POL)
Santiam	Spalt (DEU) Tettnang (DEU) Select (DEU)
Saphir (DEU)	Hallertau
Select (DEU)	Saaz Tettnang Hersbruker (DEU) Spalt (DEU) Tettnang (DEU)
Simcoe	Magnum Summit
Spalt (DEU)	Saaz Tettnang
Sterling	Saaz (CZE) Lublin (POL)
Sticklebract (NZL)	Northern Brewer (DEU)
Strisselpalt (FRA)	Crystal Liberty Mt. Hood Hersbruker (GBR)
Styrian Aurora (SVN)	Styrian Bobek (SVN) Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Styrian Celeia (SVN)	Saaz, Styrian Bobek (SVN) Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)
Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)	Fuggle Fuggle (GBR) Styrian Bobek (SVN)
Sylva (AUS)	Saaz (CZE)
Summit	Columbus Millennium Simcoe Warrior
Target (GBR)	Fuggle Willamette
Taurus (DEU)	Citra Magnum Tradition (DEU)
Tettnang	Fuggle Santiam Spalt (DEU)
Tettnang (DEU)	Saaz Hersbruker (DEU) Spalt (DEU) Select (DEU)
Tradition (DEU)	Liberty Hallertau Mittelfruh (DEU)
Tripleperle	Perle
Triskel (FRA)	Ahtanum Centennial Chinook Simcoe
Ultra	Hallertau
Vanguard	Hallertau Liberty Mt. Hood Hersbruker (DEU)
Warrior	Columbus Magnum Nugget
WGV (GBR)	East Kent Golding (GBR) Progress (GBR)
Willamette	Fuggle Glacier Tettnang Styrian Savinjski Golding (SVN)

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/hop-substitutions/