Saturday, March 26, 2016

Oyster Stout: The Tricks for Making Beer with Mollusks

#homebrew Brew-Boss Electric Homebrew Systems www.brew-boss.com


Lots of unusual ingredients are used in making #beer, especially by us #homebrewers. So it’s really no surprise that oysters—the kind from the ocean, not the Rocky Mountains (although that’s happened, too)—eventually made their way into the brew kettle.

It may sound repulsive, but the results can be far more pleasant than the smell of low tide on a hot day. In Victorian-era England, oysters and beer were a common food and drink pairing. Mollusks and other shelled seafood were fairly cheap in these times, and “stout porter” was overflowing mugs at local taverns. It seemed a match made in beer-heaven, with the sweet and salty oysters balancing the roasty and smooth characteristics of the dark brews.

Eventually the oyster shells made their way into the brew kettle, likely to promote clarity, but it also enhanced some of the beer’s bitter flavors while creating a softer mouth feel. It is said whole oysters—meat and all—were first being used by brewers in New Zealand in the early 20th century. Since then, the briny and minerally ocean-qualities have picked up quite a following among beer brewers and drinkers.

These days, the salty mollusks are used primarily to brew oyster stout. The style characteristics vary widely, concerning everything from the base style to the parts of the oyster used. For the homebrewer, it is suggested to pick a tried-and-true stout recipe that you are confident in. Based on the recipe specifications, you can start to determine the best way to instill briny characteristics through various possible oyster additions.

If brewing something like an oatmeal stout with big bold flavors, consider using all parts of the oyster: shells, meat and brine (the liquid inside oyster shells, sometimes called “liquor”). Using all components will add the briny, sea-water qualities while the meat can soften up the mouth feel.

If brewing something a bit more subtle like a dry stout, just using the shells might be wise to instill some salinity without making it unpleasantly salty. The amount of oysters used all depends on the base style, as explained above, and the desired amount of oyster characteristics.

Some commercial brewers use one whole oyster per barrel, while others use one pound of oysters per barrel. Oyster character is typically very subtle, but adding too much could leave you with a beer more reminiscent of fish soup, though this would take a lot of oysters.

If brewing a five-gallon batch of oatmeal stout, start out with 0.5-0.75 pounds of shucked oysters, and adjust future recipes to fit your desired taste. If brewing dry stout of the same volume, start with a dozen or so oyster shells. Oysters are typically added to wort during the boil. As a precautionary step, it’s highly recommended to add the oysters with at least 10 minutes left in the boil in order to cook them fully. Many brewers will add the shells right when the boil gets going and the meat and brine towards the end of the boil. That’s it!

Go get yourself a bucket of oysters, a shucking knife and glove and have an oyster stout brewday party. But be sure you don’t serve a pint to your friends with shellfish allergies!


http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/oyster-stout-tricks-brewing-mollusks/

Thursday, March 24, 2016

THE HOTTEST NEW THING: LAGERS!

Brew Boss Electric Homebrew Equipment www.brew-boss.com


I’ve been reading that one of the hot new stars on the better beer circuit is … wait for it … lager! Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.’s Nooner, Firestone-Walker Brewing Co.’s Pivo, Left Hand Brewing Co.’s Polestar, and Lagunitas Brewing Co.’s Pils were all mentioned in stories all over the beer web in the past year as some of these “simple but beautiful” beers (to use only one example of the overworked lager clichés also all over the beer web last year).

Why crown lager with this success in craft beer “culture,” on the craft beer “scene,” in the craft beer “niche”? Could it be lager’s smooth body, purity of flavor, or the way cold-aged lager tastes great at that natural maturation temperature? Maybe it’s the way lager is just good to drink and doesn’t crush your tastebuds with bitterness, or draw up your entire oral cavity with astringent burnt malt character, or pucker you up like a love-struck chimp with acidity and loosen your bowels with bacteria? (Don’t worry, I signed the loyalty pledge: “I, Lew Bryson, love IPAs, imperial stouts, sours and wild ales. They are the bestest.”) Could it be because we just needed another beer to crown as “the next IPA”?

Don’t waste too much time thinking about it. For one thing, it’s not really that important, except for beer writers with a deadline. For another, where the hell have you been? The single biggest success in non-mainstream brewing, the beer often credited as being the breakout that led the way for acceptance for the entire alternative category, battered by blasé beer geeks’ indifference but unbowed after over 30 years, is Samuel Adams Boston Lager. The beer that Andy Crouch practically wrote an epitaph for in Boston Magazinejust last year, noting that it “has a coolness problem.”

So lagers are the hot new thing, but this big well-known one that blew open the craft niche nationally over 20 years ago has a coolness problem. And don’t forget, lager is also the meat and potatoes of the hated megabrewers that strutting beer geeks still seem to feel a need to rail against. Why did it take lagers so long to get our attention, when they were right there in front of our faces all along?

The truth is, lagers are old as dirt. Even pilsner, the powerfully successful baby of the lager family, is 173 years old. Back in the day, before you could find local “indie” beers everywhere, when we talked about good beer, we may have nodded to ales like Bass and Guinness, we may have humbly bowed to Belgian masterpieces like Duvel and Liefmans, but it was pretty much an article of faith that the very Beer Gods were German, with maybe a small antechamber in the pantheon for the Czechs. No other country built such huge temples to beer, invited the entire world to celebrate beer in an annual autumnal bacchanal, based such a large part of its economy on beer, and devoted millions to the science of beer, almost all of it—oceans of it—to lager beer!

When small local brewers did pop up in America again, in the mid-Atlantic we got brewers that had lagers as a significant part of their output: Penn Brewery, Brooklyn Brewery, Stoudts Brewing Co., DeGroen’s, Victory Brewing Co., Tröegs Brewing Co., and, oh yeah, Samuel Adams. Same thing in the Midwest: Capital Brewery, New Glarus Brewing Co., Baderbräu, Schlafly, and the reborn Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing Co., Stevens Point Brewery and August Schell Brewing Co.. They even had some out on the Cool Brewers Coast: Sudwerk Brewery, Gordon Biersch, Thomas Kemper Brewing Co., Saxer Brewing Co., and Trumer Brauerei. Then there was this place called Yuengling that saw some reborn success.

Maybe lagers didn’t get the sparkly attention of the geekiest because at their heart, lagers aren’t about the diversity and fecund experimentation so popular with the drinkers (one new beer at a time). They’re about deep, precise quality in fairly well-defined patterns. Maybe this: lagers are figure skating; ales are ice dancing. Or maybe this: a brewer I know said, “Ales! I could teach a chimp to brew ales. I make lager.” Unnecessarily confrontational (and I dare say a British brewer might disagree), but it’s a matter of deeply-held faith with lager brewers that their craft is more demanding and less forgiving than other types of brewing.

Whatever the reason, this shouldn’t be about who was first. (We were, and you better not forget it.) This should be about expanding the horizons of beer enjoyment. If more people learn about how great pilsners and exports and bocks can be, we’re all richer for it. They’re not even one-trick ponies. Lagers can go from malt bomb to hop monster, they take to smoke exceedingly well, make for a great drinking session beer and can crush your head deftly with a glass-smooth alcohol power. I still agree with Bill Covaleski of Victory that lagers are the segment’s secret weapon to get to a much, much larger share of the total market; more people like lager than any other beer type. Lagers can be the way to huge growth.

But what they aren’t, is anything new. Get over yourself. This round’s on you; go get another pitcher of dunkel, and I’ll teach you a drinking song when you get back.

http://allaboutbeer.com/new-lagers/
Lew Bryson’s been drinking non-mainstream beer since 1981 and writing about it since 1994. He lives in the Philadelphia suburbs.

Tuesday, March 22, 2016

Brew-Boss Automated Electric Brewing Review on BeerAdvocate

Nice #review of the #Brew-Boss system. Check it out.


http://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/brew-boss-automated-electric-brewing-review.390877/




Hi,

This is my review of the Brew-Boss system I purchased in late 2015. I hope you find it helpful.


Some background:

I am the 2014 AHA Homebrewer of the year and am in the process of opening my own brewery. It is a nano-brewery with a tasting room and I wanted a small pilot system that was electric and automated. I did all the research and I selected the Brew-Boss system, with a COFI filter and hops boss in the 20 gallon size. The purpose of this review is to share what I have learned. I was previously a BIAB brewer (5 gallon batch) so it made sense to me that this would be a good way to go.

Set-Up:

I was completely impressed with the equipment when it arrived. The packaging was precise and well executed! No damage, nothing missing, and easy to unpack. Smaller boxes were nested so nothing shifted in the large cartons. I did the Set up following the instructions well and the only issue I had was finding a table the height I needed. I eventually went to a used restaurant supply and bought a 2’ x 4’ stainless table. Cut the legs down, cleaned it up and that was that. The COFI filter or a Brew in the bag bag needs to be lifted out after mashing and grain for a high gravity 15 gal batch is heavy so I needed a set up low enough to get a block and tackle ( a small one - not ship sized) above it.

I had a GFI Outlet already so wiring was easy. The tablet came pre-configured so once I figured out how to use it(I’m an iPad guy so Android was —ummm— different) I was ready.

The water test:

I confess that I was a tad worried so I actually did the water test before brewing. Those of you who know me realize that following directions is not my strongest attribute... Turns out I had nothing to worry about. Everything went smoothly and I was surprised when the tablet voice prompted me. I would prefer a different voice (maybe Scarlett Johansen) but it was still cool.



The Software:

For my first batch, I decided to make 15 gallons of Way Off Kilter, a Scottish Ale that won BOS in 2014. I make this beer a lot in different ways (BIAB, conventional and a collaboration with a local brewery in 10 BBL lots) so I felt that it would be a good test to start.

I up-scaled my recipe using Beersmith and then programmed the software with my recipe. I opened an existing program and did a “save as” then modified the steps. Honestly, I had a couple of issues (see iPad note above) and had to ask Darrin to help. He was prompt with his response, and solved my issues immediately. Now after 5 brew days, I finally understand what is going on in the software. The problems I had were caused by me not thinking in an automated way, but in a conventional way. By batch three everything started to fall into place.

The features I like (a lot) about the software are (in no particular order):

• The boil is automatically maintained at the temperature I want.
• voice prompts along the way
• automated hop additions with the hops boss - this was always an issue for me, I’d get distracted and miss the addition.
• Did I mention she talks to me?
• Recipe programs can be saved and reused.
• I wrote a “cleanup” program for cleaning the kettle, pump and lines - heats up some water - tells me to add PBW - then recirculates through all the hoses! It’s sweet…

The features I struggled with were:

• The programming steps require a lot of attention to detail. there are a lot of settings and you have to be sure you set each flag for each step to do what you want it to do. See note above about me and directions.

• The window that you “type into” is a little awkward on the last line or two… I figured it out, but at first it caused me some issues.

The Hardware:

In addition to the controller and the 20 gallon kettle, I also purchased the COFI Filter, the Hops-Boss, and the Swirl-Boss whirlpooling wand.

Kettle: Well made, good welds, clean. No issues at all and it seemed heavy.

Element: Mounts to the kettle with a TC Clamp and plugs into the controller. Well made - be sure to keep it clean!

COFI Filter: This is a stainless mesh cylinder with a center copper pipe that forced water (then wort) into the grain while the mash recirculates. Once mashing is complete, you thread on a lifting ring and hoist the COFI out of the kettle. I actually think its way better than BIAB except you can’t add dark grains at the end of the mash. If you do that on a regular basis, you need to find an alternative method as you can’t easily open the COFI Filter to insert the grains. I have made a cold tea of the dark grains that worked quite well when I add it at the end of the mash in. I also tried a batch where I put the dark grains in on the top and found that worked as well. I suspect that there is an optimal way to avoid dark grain astringency and I will continue to experiment.



Hops Boss: Oh man this is a cool idea! You mount the hops boss after you pull the COFI or BIAB and load the little tubes with hops, whirl flock, or whatever. The software tells it when to advance and the hops just slide right in! You only have 7 tubes but you can load them up more than once. Takes all the “crap - I missed the alarm” out of brewing. Very well made and easy to take apart to clean.

Swirl-Boss: OK I was skeptical about this one. It’s a copper pipe with a funny hole in the end. And the whirlpool is supposed to be done in hot wort allowing air to enter! Crazy stuff- right? Having said that - I did that exactly on my test batch of Scottish Ale and can report the following”

• The cone of hot break and true was beautiful! I never before got whirl pooling to work so well as it did.

• The tablet reminded me not only to mount the swirl-boss but to open certain valves. The software took it from there!

• There was no difference in taste between hot side aeration with the swirl boss and the way I did it before! I saved time and no carboy shaking either!

Support: Honestly, the most important thing to me is support. I want someone to talk to who can answer my questions. At the same time, I want to be able to develop my own solutions. Darrin was there for me and provided concrete solutions and advise.

Conclusion: This is a great solution for me! I can repeatedly brew small batches, try out recipes before going to the main system while having repeatable steps, and do other things while the software ( I really need to give her a name) keeps track of everything. I recommend Brew-Boss to anyone seeking an electric brewing system with automation.

rhilferding, Feb 29, 2016
#1

Sunday, March 20, 2016

Video: Brew Boss Tips and Tricks Managing Hot Break

Brew-Boss Electric Homebrewing Equipment


How to manage hot break with Brew-Boss electric homebrew system. This is why we love electric brewing! Try that with gas!


#hotbreak,#homebrew, #thebeernation, #brewbossbrewing

Friday, March 18, 2016

New Brew-Boss Product: 400 micron 304 SS Hops Spider



#Brew-Boss introduces another new product. 
If you own a #FastFerment conical fermenter and like IPAs, you gotta get this item. It is a 400 micron 304 stainless steel hops spider that allows you to dry hop inside the FastFerment fermenter. Works better than a mesh bag as you don't have to worry about how to suspend a bag so it does not fall to the bottom of the fermenter. This filter sets right into the fermenter and is tall enough that it can't tip sideways. Simply sanitize the filter and place it into your fermenter. Add your hops and replace the cover. Can be used over and over. Sells for $85.



#brewbossbrewing, #homebrew, #thebrewnation

Thursday, March 17, 2016

Happy St. Patrick's Day from Brew Boss!!

You don't need the luck of the Irish to make great beer.  Brew-Boss Electric Brewing Systems help you make consistently great beer.  Get one today!! 


#homebrew, #thebeernation, #brewbossbrewing


Wednesday, March 16, 2016

When (And When NOT) To Be Paranoid About Home Brewing Sanitation

#homebrew #brewboss Brew Boss Electric Homebrew Equipment www.brew-boss.com


by David Ackley

You’ve heard it again and again – cleaning and #sanitation are two of the most important aspects of #homebrewing. It’s true – lax cleaning and sanitation can easily spoil a batch of homebrew – but there are some things about beer and brewing that inherently prevent spoilage. Knowing what they are can save some time and headache.

Now this advice may go against conventional wisdom, but in an effort to save you some stress, here’s a breakdown of when – and when not – to be overly concerned about home brewing sanitation.

When to Be Paranoid About Home Brewing Sanitation

  • Yeast handling – Anytime you’re handling yeast is a good time to be concerned about sanitation. In fact, it’s when you should be most paranoid about sanitation. That said, by pitching a large number of yeast cells into a wort, that yeast will likely outcompete any other microorganisms – but there’s no sense in giving those spoiling microbes a leg up. Whenever you’re harvesting yeast or preparing a yeast starter, go the extra mile to make sure that anything that might come in contact with the yeast has been thorough cleaned and sanitized.
  • Post boil, post chill – One of the reasons we boil wort is to sanitize it. Maintaining a high temperature effectively sanitizes the wort, giving the beer yeast a clean slate for it to ferment. But once the temperature of the wort drops, it becomes susceptible to wild yeast and bacteria. After the wort has been chilled, everything it touches needs to be thoroughly sanitized: fermenters, airlocks, racking tubing, thermometers, hydrometers. This is why it’s not recommended to return wort used for hydrometer reading back to the main batch.
  • Bottling – To continue from the previous point, you don’t want to go through all the hard work of brewing a batch of beer just to put it in a dirty bottle. Make sure all the bottles are extra clean and don’t forget to check the spigot of the bottling bucket.

When NOT to Be Paranoid About Home Brewing Sanitation

  • During a normal mash – Clean the mash tun, yes, but you don’t really need to sanitize it. That said, a mash that’s left alone for a long time can go sour. In fact, some brewers use what’s called a sour mash in brewing sour beer. But a normal, 60-90 minute mash will not have enough time to spoil. Of course, it might be a good idea to clean and sanitize your mash tun after the mash to prevent mold growth.
  • When boiling – There’s really no need to sanitize your brew kettle. The high temperature of the boil will be more than sufficient for sanitizing.
  • When using an immersion wort chiller – There’s no need to sanitize your immersion wort chiller. Make sure it’s clean, yes, but placing it in nearly boiling wort will be plenty hot for sanitizing. Just make sure you clean it well afterwards.
  • After fermentation – Once your beer has made it through fermentation, you’re not exactly out of the woods, but your beer is in a much safer place than it was before fermentation. For one, the alcohol content in the beer will protect it from spoilage organisms to some degree. Also, the lower acidity of the beer will inhibit wild bacteria. Plus, the hops have a preservative effect as well. So when checking final gravity readings, for example, it’s still a good idea to clean and sanitize your gear, but don’t stress about sanitation – you’re almost in the clear!
  • When dry hopping – One of the most common stress points is when adding dry hops. Shouldn’t they be sanitized before throwing them in the beer? Some brewers do this, but it’s not really necessary. The hops have naturally preservative properties, and as long as they’ve been stored properly, there’s little to know chance that they’ll contaminate your beer.

This isn’t a license to throw good cleaning and sanitation habits out the window. You’re certainly better off going overboard than missing a spot and spoiling a batch. But in terms of being paranoid about sanitizing, simply make sure your yeast are the only ones fermenting your beer. That's what home brewing sanitation is all about. Then all you have to do is relax, don’t worry, and have a homebrew!

- See more at: http://www.eckraus.com/blog/home-brewing-sanitation#sthash.Fb7Gt5WE.dpuf