Monday, March 14, 2016

10 Spices to Use in Your Homebrew Beer

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Looking to add a dash of creativity to your homebrew beer? Try one – or more – of these ten beer spices! Using spices in your beer can add a whole new dimension to its flavor profile. Here are 10 spices you can experiment with:
  1. Caraway – If you’re a fan of rye bread, you might try a caraway rye ale. Caraway seeds tend to work well with darker beers. Use about 5 grams of toasted seeds per gallon as a starting point, added for a few days at the end of secondary fermentation.
  2. Cayenne – Much like with a chipotle smoked porter, cayenne can be used to give a spicy kick to nearly any beer. Remember, moderation is key! 1/2 teaspoon at the end of the boil in a five-gallon batch should give you plenty of heat.
  3. Cinnamon – Cinnamon actually comes from the bark of a tree. There are two types: Cassia cinnamon – the one most commonly found in grocery stores – and “true” cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum or Cinnamomum zeylanicum). Choose which one you prefer. Both work well in combination with other holiday spices, like ginger, cloves, and nutmeg. Put the cinnamon stick or ground cinnamon directly in the boil.
  4. Cloves – You might try to add a dash (no more!) of cloves to a hefeweizen to accent the clove character of the Weizen beer yeast, which tends to come out when this style is fermented at the lower end of the temperature range. This is one of the more practical ways of using spices in beer. Cloves also work nicely in winter spiced ales.
  5. Coriander – Notorious for its use in Belgian witbier, coriander can also lend a pleasant citrus spiciness to other brews, such as saisons.
  6. Fennel Seed – I had an excellent beer at a homebrew festival a couple years ago, a whiskey fennel ale. It was an amber ale base, with the whiskey and fennel added in perfect balance. Try from a cup to a quart of whiskey added into the secondary fermenter. The fennel seed can be added towards the end of the boil, into the fermenter, or maybe even steeped in the whiskey for a few days prior to mixing it into the beer.
  7. Ginger – Of all the spices you can use in a beer, ginger is one of the most commonly found in beer. Used in high enough proportions (an ounce or more per gallon), it can lend a very sharp, spicy kick to your homebrew. 
  8. Mole – New Belgium’s Cocoa Mole Ale is amazing. Though mole is actually a blend of spices, you can find mole blends at most grocery stores.
  9. Peppercorns – I have had a couple of excellent saisons brewed with peppercorns. As when using most spices in beer, the subtlety was the key. There are a variety of different peppercorns (white, red, black, green). Try aging some beer on a teaspoon or two of whole peppercorns for a touch of spicy complexity.
  10. Turmeric – A subtle earthy spice, turmeric is a major component of yellow curry powder with an intense yellow color. Try mixing turmeric with a combination of other spices, like ginger and coriander, but be aware that it may stain your plastic fermenter!

*Remember: When using spices in beer, less is more! If you’re unfamiliar with a particular spice, start with just a touch. For the stronger spices (like hot chiles), a teaspoon may well impart a lot of flavor. A quarter-ounce to an ounce at most will be plenty, adding the spice either into the secondary fermenter or during the last 10-15 minutes of the boil. I’ve found that when some spices are boiled too long they can impart some bitterness that may overwhelm the palate.

In the event that the spice flavor is too much, try giving the beer a month or two to age, maybe even longer. The spice will usually subside over time.

Saturday, March 12, 2016

How To Use A Hydrometer For Brewing Beer, Wine And More



Why Do You Need A Hydrometer?

You don't absolutely need a hydrometer, but it's a great tool to have for brewing. By using it, you can:
  • Accurately determine how much sugar is in your must or wort (the mixture that you start your fermentation with)
  • Check to see if your brew is still fermenting, or if it has stopped or stalled
  • Calculate the final amount of alcohol in your brew

Think of it like your car's gas gauge--you can get around without it, but it will definitely make your life easier!

What Exactly Is A Hydrometer?

A hydrometer is a glass tube with a weighted bulb at one end. It looks a lot like a thermometer, but there is no liquid (or other moving parts) inside. It measures the weight (or gravity) of a liquid in relation to the weight of water. Because the relation of the gravity to water is specified, the resulting measure is called a specific gravity. A hydrometer will float higher in a heavier liquid (one that has some sugar dissolved in it), and lower in a lighter liquid (like water or alcohol). By knowing how much sugar you started with and ended up with, you can easily calculate the resulting Alcohol By Volume percentage (ABV%).

There are many different varieties of hydrometers, but most will have at least two scales on them--a Balling or Brix scale that measures the percentage of sugar by weight, and a Potential Alcohol scale that measure percentage of alcohol.



The Potential Alcohol scale, which is what most home brewers will use, normally ranges from 0 to 20 percent alcohol. You can't determine the amount of alcohol with just a single reading, but if you take both a before and after reading and apply a little math, you can calculate the ABV%.



The Brix scale is mainly used by grape growers and commercial wineries. It will give you the percentage of sugar that is in the liquid by weight. If you have a grape juice that reads 24 on the Brix scale, that means that the juice is made up of 24% sugar by weight.

When buying your hydrometer, make sure you purchase a test jar if it doesn't come with the hydrometer already. The hydrometer will probably come in a storage tube, but it won’t have a wide base, and could tip over easily when filled.
How Do You Use A Hydrometer?

1. Take a sample and insert the hydrometer

You'll take your first measurement after you've added all your ingredients, but before you've added the yeast. This reading should be taken as close to room temperature as possible.

Use a wine thief to get a sample of your liquid, and fill the testing jar. Be careful not to overfill--the liquid will rise when you insert the hydrometer. Add the hydrometer, and make sure there is enough liquid that it is floating off the bottom. Try to wait until all the air bubbles have left the tube, and make sure the hydrometer is centered in the tube, not touching the sides.



In this picture I'm just measuring plain water, and you can see it's right around 1.000. If you're using plain tap water this could be off by a little bit, due to minerals or other impurities in the water.

2. Record the Original Gravity reading

The increments of the hydrometer represent specific gravity points. Record the number on hydrometer where the liquid crosses it.

I used another of the Spike Your Juice kits to make a quick bottle of wine from some store bought grape juice (check out my previous post on how to do this), and took a reading of the juice with nothing added.



In this picture, you can see we have a reading of 1.064.

Once you have your reading, you may want to add additional sugar to raise the specific gravity, depending on what you are brewing, and how sweet you want the finished product to be. For example, a dry wine or mead might start with a gravity between 1.085 and 1.100, while a sweeter variety might start between 1.140 and 1.160. So this tells me that this wine will be relatively dry when finished.

3. Adjust for temperature

Hydrometer readings assume that you have a standard temperature of 59°F (15°C). Odds are your room isn't exactly this temperature, so you'll need to adjust your reading based on the actual temperature. You can calculate the difference by using the table below--just add the “G Change” to your Original Gravity reading to obtain the correct specific gravity.



The temperature in my kitchen was 78°F, so for my reading above, I would add .0022, giving me a corrected Original Gravity of 1.0662.

4. Wait, then record the Final Gravity reading

Once your brew has finished fermenting, you'll take the Final Gravity (FG) reading (adjusting for the temperature once again). Typical FGs for various brews arefrom about 0.992 up to 1.010, depending on what you're brewing.



As you can see, my Final Gravity reading is 1.002, right around where it should be. I still need to correct for the temperature, so I would again add .0022, give me a corrected FG of 1.0042. Actually, since I took both of my readings at exactly the same time, the temperature was bound to be the same for both of them, so I didn't really need to add the .0022. You would just need to calculate it when you're taking reading on different days, at (possibly) different temperatures.

5. Calculate


Now the math comes in--don't worry, it's easy! The formula you'll use is:
(OG - FG) x 131.25 = ABV%

In other words, subtract your Final Gravity from the Original Gravity, multiply that result by 131.25, and you have your Alcohol By Volume percentage.

So for the wine I brewed, my calculations are:
(1.0662 - 1.0042) X 131.25 = 8.1% ABV

Just a tiny bit over 8% alcohol by volume, about the same as a nice German Riesling.

I used two different hydrometers here, but you'll want to use the same one for both of your gravity readings, so that you can be sure a slightly different one doesn't throw your readings off.

Once you've taken your reading(s), don't pour the liquid back in with the rest of your brew! You could wind up contaminating it.

Also, be sure not to overdo your testing! Every time you open up your brew to test it, you risk exposing it to harmful bacteria or wild yeasts. I recommend waiting to do the final test until you're relatively certain that the fermentation is finished.

http://selfreliantschool.com/how-to-use-a-hydrometer-for-brewing-beer-wine-and-more/

Thursday, March 10, 2016

DRY HOP TEMPERATURE: WARM VS. COOL

#brewbossbrewing Brew Boss Electric Homebrew Equipment www.brew-boss.com




Author: Ray Found

IPA is one of the most popular styles of craft beer, one in which I’ve invested a lot of effort over the last year in my plight to develop my version of the perfect #IPA. This is exactly what MACC IPA is to me, a recipe I’ve tweaked multiple times that I’m finally happy to call complete. When it comes to IPA, many interesting variables to test come to mind, but none more on the forefront than those that might bring greater understanding to one of the quintessential components of this delicious style: dry hopping.

We’ve explored #dryhop quantities, dry hop length, double dry hopping, and the impact of pellet and whole cone in the dry hop, but we’ve yet to investigate the temperature at which hops are added to the fermented beer. It seems the most commonly practiced method involves adding the hops to the beer at fermentation temperature with many performing a cold crash a few days later. However, we recently heard from a reader who claimed to be getting great dry hop character despite adding the hops to the cold beer post-cold crashing. Huh. While I’ve heard of keg hopping, which involves leaving a charge of hops suspended in a cold keg while serving, I’d never given much thought to the temperature question. Until now.

| PURPOSE |


To evaluate the differences between 2 beers of the same exact recipe where one was dry hopped warm (76°F) and the other cold (36°F).

| METHOD |

As any regular reader of Brülosophy is perhaps aware, I’ve used my MACC IPA recipe in quite a few xBmts, I love this beer. Given the variable being investigated here, I thought it a perfect fit. Having pretty much settled on a final recipe, one that has scored well in BJCP-ranked competitions and is always well received by my hophead family and friends, I’m excited to announce it is the second recipe kit being released in collaboration with our friends at Love2Brew! For anyone looking for a drinkable and deliciously hop-forward IPA, I trust this kit will get you where you want to go, it’s available right now!

Failing to account for my lack of WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast, I decided to ferment this batch with Safale US-05, a benefit being I didn’t need to make a starter ahead of time. My brew day began by heating the strike water, during which I collected and milled my grains.



With the strike water to temp, I mashed in and set the timer to 1 hour, stirring a couple times throughout.



With the uneventful mash complete, I collected the first runnings, performed a quick batch sparge, then hit the flame under the kettle. The boil started off very boring, receiving nothing but a few drops of FermCap-S until the last 20 minutes when the first and only dose of boil hops was tossed in. At the conclusion of the boil, I added the large charge of flameout hops and allowed them to steep for 20 minutes before proceeding to quickly chill the wort.





I evenly split the wort between 2 carboys and placed them in my chamber to finishing chilling to my target fermentation temperature. The following morning, I rehydrated and pitched a pack of US-05 into each fermentor. Signs of fermentation were visible within hours and became quite vigorous the following day.





About a week later, both beers appearing finished fermenting and sitting at 1.013 SG, it was time for the fun to begin. One of the fermentors was removed from the fermentation chamber and allowed to sit at 74°F/23°C, while the other carboy was cold crashed to 34°F/1°C. Once the temperature of the cold crashed beer stabilized, identical portions of hops were added to both fermentors and they were left alone for 4 days. While I typically cold crash andfine with gelatin in primary a few days after adding the dry hops, in order to avoid introducing extraneous variables, I opted to keg both beers at the temperature they were dry hopped at, which meant fining would occur in the keg once both were cool. Oh, the sacrifices we make for beer science. The warm dry hopped beer was a complete headache to keg, with extensive hop matter floating about that clogged my siphon multiple times. Regardless of the results, I vow never to keg a dry hopped beer without first cold crashing again, such a pain. The fluffy nature of the trub at the bottom of the warm dry hopped batch increased my yield loss, resulting in about 3 quarts less total beer in the keg. Dammit!




Left: warm dry hopped | Right: cold dry hopped


Once packaged, both kegs were purged and hit with CO2 to seat the lids, then they were disconnected from the gas so as to avoid any carbonation differences due to beer temperature. Once the temperature of each keg was stable, I added gelatin to each then cranked up the CO2 to carbonate. By the following weekend, the gelatin had done its thing and the beers were looking great.




| RESULTS |

All told, 16 people participated in this xBmt including craft beer loving family, friends, and members of my homebrew club. Each taster was served two samples of the warm dry hopped beer and one sample of the cold dry hopped beer in opaque colored cups then asked to identify the odd-one-out. While 9 correct response (p<0.05) would be required to suggest a significant difference, a total of 10 tasters (p=0.007) correctly identified the different beer, suggesting these participants were reliably able to distinguish between beers dry hopped at drastically different temps.

Of the 10 correct respondents, 3 reported preferring the cool dry hopped beer, 5 said the liked the warm dry hopped beer better, and 2 had no clear preference despite noting the beers as being different.

Interestingly, 7 of the 10 correctly identified the beer of the two was dryhopped warm and which was dryhopped cool.

My Impressions: My personal experience was represented well by the tasting panel in that I was able to tell the beers apart with decent consistency, though it was by no means trivially easy. I noted greater aromatic intensity in the warm dry hopped beer with a more pungent fruity note. In fact, it was similar to the difference in aroma I notice when I pour myself a cold IPA and it warms over time. The flavor was a similar story, I thought the cold dry hopped beer was slightly smoother and less intensely hoppy, while the warm dry hopped beer exhibited a bit more hop bite or sharpness, though it didn’t come across as harsh.

I absolutely love this beer and have honed the recipe over the course of a year that included 8 batches, each with only minor adjustments. It could be my personal bias and preference for the familiar talking, but I preferred the warm dry hopped beer , I felt it possessed the sharp fruit punch of hops I enjoy so much. It smells and tastes like MACC IPA is supposed to smell and taste! 
 
| DISCUSSION |

Frankly, I’ve no inclination to dry hop with the exact processes used on this batch again. Adding the dry hop charge to cold beer failed to extract enough of the really bright hop aroma I prefer, and while I felt the warm dry hopped batch was great, kegging prior to cold crashing was a pain in the ass. I’m inclined to continue dry hopping warm and cold crashing in the fermentor because it works well for me. But for whose process is different than mine, dry hopping cold is certainly a valid option, as that beer maintained totally adequate levels of aroma and flavor.

These results may not have motivated a change in my process, but it definitely got my gears turning. I wonder how dry hopping warm then immediately cooling the beer would impact the final product? And while I’ve no interest in performing it myself, I would like to know more about the impact of cold crashing when the dry hops are added at the same time and temperature. And the list continues to grow!

Tuesday, March 8, 2016

Video: Brew Boss Tips and Tricks - Using the Power Slider

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A description of how to use the power slider bar in the Brew-Boss app. Explains how manual override works and how to restore automatic temperature control.

Sunday, March 6, 2016

3 Biggest Mistakes When Introducing Someone to Craft Beer

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By John W. Mitchell


For all the progress #craftbeer has made in the past few decades—reaching an all-time high brewery count and successfully reinventing America’s beer palate—there’s still a large portion of the population that doesn’t get craft beer. To reach the Brewers Association’s aspirational goal of helping craft beer reach 20 percent market share by 2020, as craft beer fans, we’re going to have to be even bigger and louder advocates for our favorite breweries.

I asked several brewers what they felt were common reasons why people don’t try or like craft beer. Their answers were amazingly consistent, and they offered up some good strategies to help open new drinkers up to craft beer.

Make it one of your New Year’s resolutions to win over your family and friends to craft beer with these helpful tips.

1. Over Geeking It


The rise of craft beer is sometimes described as the “winification” of beer. That’s easy to understand with talk of sniffing, swirling and mouthfeel. And while advancing appreciation of taste is a logical path for an experienced craft beer drinker, our experts advise that it is not a good way to win over a new craft drinker.

“It seems the main reason for people not trying craft beer is because of the way it’s introduced to them,” said Michael Lyn Bryant, General Manager & Creative Director at Dunedin Brewery in Tampa, Fla.–the oldest craft brewery in the state. “If the introduction comes off as pretentious, that could turn someone off.”



Roxane Nielsen, co-owner at Prescott Brewing Co. in Prescott, Ariz. and a 21-year veteran in craft beer, advocates the KISS approach to matching someone to a craft beer. She maintains that KISS—Keep It Simple Stupid—is essential to pairing a new drinker with the right beer.

“Don’t overcomplicate it—don’t act like a beer snob,” she cautions. “A large selection of unfamiliar names and styles can be intimidating.” She advocates new craft beer drinkers taste samples to narrow down the discussion and to best pair the beers the customer will like best. She notes that tasting also empowers a person to be happy with their selection.

Steve Jones at Pateros Creek Brewing Co. in Ft. Collins, Colo. also advises keeping the craft beer experience down to earth.

“We can geek out all we want to amongst ourselves. But it’s my opinion that we are going to brew ourselves out of existence if we don’t keep the average beer drinker happy.”

Bryant said it is important to speak to new craft beer drinkers in language that they can relate to.

“If they don’t have a strong beer vocabulary, it’s important to talk to people in their terms,” explained Bryant. “Maybe they like chocolate, caramel or tropical fruit. These are the doorways that help people identify with new ideas and experiences.”

2. Starting with Your Favorite IPA


It may be the most popular craft beer style in America, but can we all agree that extremely hop-forward beer is an acquired taste? Our experts counsel that it’s not a good first choice for new craft beer drinkers.

“The most common misunderstanding about craft is that not all beer styles are heavily hopped,” said Carole Kennelly, Brand Warrior at Historic Brewing Co. in Flagstaff, Ariz. “It has been my experience that if someone says they do not like craft, what they are actually saying is they do not like IPAs.”

She said it’s vital to educate new customers that many craft beer styles do not have a hop heavy taste profile.

“It is a daily occurrence that a self-proclaimed non-beer drinker will get turned on with one sip of our Cherry, Vanilla Piehole Porter,” she noted. Ultimately, she reminds, there is something for everyone in the countless world of craft beer styles.

Nielsen seconds her Arizona colleague in cautioning about IPAs, which she termed a “curse” for new drinkers (and they make good IPA, folks!).

“A previous bad experience with an IPA that someone was not prepared for can lead to a bad connotation 
of craft beer as a whole,” said Nielsen.


3. Forgetting to Share the Powerful Story of Craft Beer


Probably no one in craft beer knows the power of the big beer brand like Schlafly Beer’s Co-Founder Dan Kopman, in St. Louis, Mo. the longtime home to Budweiser.

“We’ve been around for 24 years, and we’ve built a haven for loyal domestic drinkers to find something different they haven’t seen in the grocery store aisles,” Kopman said.

He said they converted big beer drinkers at their two locations one person at a time through tasting and a lot of patience.

“It’s not enough to make great craft beer,” said Kopman. “You have to welcome people into your taproom or restaurant and be a guide, but without being preachy.”

Both Kennelly and Nielsen said that all the money big beer has spent over the decades to create brand loyalty has created a barrier, but also an opportunity.

The two brewers say the power of craft lies in promoting the individuality and story of the neighborhood craft brewery to new drinkers. Better beer, is, after all, a strong and local selling proposition.

“Craft drinkers tend to identify themselves as being different from the standard,” said Kennelly. “They drink craft because it says that they are open to new experiences, more adventurous or simply it says they believe in quality.”

Friday, March 4, 2016

Sustainable Uses of Spent Grain

#spentgrain #homebrew #brewboss Brew Boss Electric Homebrew Equipment www.brew-boss.com


Spent grain, the leftover #malt and adjuncts after the mash has extracted most of the sugars, proteins, and nutrients, can constitute as much as 85 percent of a brewery’s total by-product. Craft breweries all over the country have devised innovative ways to prevent their spent grain from going to waste.

While agricultural uses of spent grain predominates—usually in the form of compost or feed—there are many new revolutionary uses, including powering an entire brewhouse. Alternative uses of spent grain underscore the #craftbeer community’s commitment to creating a sustainable product that lingers in our sensory memories, not our landfills.

From Foam to Farm

While breweries such as Twisted Pine Brewing Company and Hangar 24 Craft Brewery employ “farm-to-foam” approaches in creating seasonal beers using local ingredients, many others give back the bulk of their spent grain to their agricultural communities—from ”foam-to-farm” so to speak.

Oftentimes, craft brewers merely have to haul their spent grain a mile down the road to their very own farms. Larry Chase of Standing Stone Brewing Company in Ashland, Ore., feeds over five dozen chickens of various heritage on the grain from the brewery. They also distribute their feed into “grain beds [that] will transform into beautiful soil beds for planting future Standing Stone special fruits and vegetables,” according to Chase.

Rather than schlepping spent grain to their animals, Joleen and Brian Durham’s “girlfriends”—their twelve head of cattle—eagerly anticipate brew day at Piney River Brewing Company, located on an 80-acre farm in south central Mo., in the heart of the Ozarks. Already enticed away from their field by the sweet smell of mash, “They get as close as they can and moo for a bucket load of grain,” said Joleen Durham. “The girls are actually quite pig-like in their love for spent grain.” Despite the nation’s most widespread drought in six decades affecting farmers everywhere, Piney River’s “girlfriends” remain in prime shape thanks to their regular post-mash meals.



From the Ozarks to the Great Smoky Mountains and the Rockies, spent grain nourishes a variety of four-legged creatures. The Brewery at Blackberry Farm in Walland, Tenn., part of a luxury resort and hotel, only produces three Belgian-style beers, but their grain feeds chickens, sheep, llamas and pigs, which, in turn, provide eggs, milk, wool and meat for patrons.

Arvada Beer Company and The Fort Collins Brewery, both in Colorado, look out for an animal that may be closer to your heart, namely your pet pooch. Arvada Beer Company donates some of its spent grain to a local dog biscuit bakery, while The Fort Collins Brewery bakes dog biscuits in their adjoining restaurant’s kitchen for local family friends. Beyond invigorating your parched palate, your pint sustains pets, livestock, and the livelihoods of craft brewers in and outside the brewhouse.

From Foam to Plate


Many craft breweries re-use their spent grain in their own kitchens, so in some way the beer you’re drinking might also be on your plate. Gravity 1020, the tavern of The Fort Collins Brewery, bakes bread using their leftover 1900 Amber Lager and Chocolate Stout grain, while Blackberry Farm bakes bread in one of their kitchens. Meanwhile, Standing Stone’s restaurant uses the eggs their spent grain-fed chickens lay in desserts, quiches and breakfast dishes.

Of course, if they can do it in their kitchens, you can do it in yours! Whether you’re a homebrewer or just interested in working with a neat new ingredient, your local brewery will mostly likely gladly provide you with the spent grain you’ll need. A craft beer dinner party would be a perfect time to wow your friends and family with pairings of your favorite brew and a dish that incorporates spent grain, and The Brooklyn Brew Shop has all the inspiration you need. Their Spent Grain Chef showcases nearly two dozen recipes, and provides an in-depth explanation on how to dry your spent grain, which is essential for maximizing its use in a variety of sweet and savory dishes. A dash of resourcefulness goes a long way in turning your beer from liquid bread into a full meal.

From Foam to Flora

Spent grain’s greatest potential, however, lies in its ability to provide food for an entire community. Composted, spent grain fertilizes fields, gardens, and urban greenhouses across the country, thus providing people with nutritious, natural foods. As part of their broader sustainability initiative, Reuben’s Brews donates their spent grain to Seattle Tilth, a non-profit organic gardening and urban ecology organization, which uses the grist to grow mushrooms. Apparently spent grain is rich in nitrates and sulfates that allow fungi to flourish.



Milwaukee Brewing Company gives their spent grain to Growing Power, a national organization that helps provide equal access to healthy foods and hands-on skills in growing them. Once up and running in 2013, Brewery 85 in South Carolina will partner with The Generous Garden to grow food for local churches and food banks. Furthermore, Brewery 85 plans to cooperate with nearby Clemson University’s agricultural department to one day grow new grain from the spent, composted matter. One craft brewery’s waste can turn into an entire community’s wealth.

From Pint to Power

If your nearest farmer or community garden is already inundated in spent grain, innovation is the watchword, and Alaskan Brewing Company (ABC) found just the right solution. By developing “a first-of-its-kind biomass steam boiler,” fueled entirely by their spent grain. Ashley Johnston of ABC estimates that “The new boiler will completely eliminate the brewery’s use of fuel oil in the grain drying process, and displace more than half of the fuel needed to create process steam for the brewing process.”

In turn, this boiler will lead to “more than a 60 percent reduction in fuel oil use in the first year, and, with moderate growth assumptions, this translates to a fuel savings of nearly 1,500,000 gallons of oil over the next 10 years,” Johnston states. “As the brewery grows, so does our fuel source, leading to even more savings.”

With this technology, ABC is taking sustainability to a new level, using their raw material waste to power their day-to-day brewing operations, thus creating a perpetual loop that conserves energy, saves money and is readily available. Of course, not all craft breweries can afford to invest in such technology, but necessity is the mother of invention, and ABC’s solution is a model reminder of what can be done in the realm of alternative fuels.



Craft breweries all across the country have different methods of dealing with their spent grain once most of the sugars, proteins, and essential nutrients have made their way into the sweet wort that soon will be your next pint. Agriculture is an obvious, but venerable application, and many craft brewers use their own spent grain to fertilize their fields and feed their farm animals. Cooking with the leftover grist for the immediate satisfaction of a tasty meal, or composting the spent grain and eventually using it to grow food for an entire community are simultaneously sustainable and altruistic ways to dispose of breweries’ raw material waste.

Using spent grain to fuel your own brewhouse, like ABC, is the ultimate sustainable solution to literally keep your brewery running. Sustainability is a hallmark of the craft beer industry and every brewery is doing its part in its own way.

Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Video: Brew Boss Tips and Tricks - Install COFI Filter

Brew-Boss automated electric brewing system. www.brew-boss.com

 How to install the COFI mash infusion filter into the kettle.

#brewboss #homebrew #cofi @brewbossbrewing